Installing Euro's on a 4000Q

[Abe Berman]

I was able to mount H1/H4's on an 85 4kq using the following method:

The top outboard hole mounts up same as US, no problems there, as Eric
mentioned.

For the top inboard hole I used an angle brace from the hardware store
to connect stock US hole/mounting point to the Euro mounting point.  I
had to cut the angle brace slightly to make it fit.  No biggie though.

For the bottom mounts, I used a vice-grip to tweak the cars existing
bracket to match the pitch and location of the euro mounting points. 
Do this GENTLY so as on to damage the bracket.  It is soft metal and
bends fairly easily.  I re-used the clips that provide threaded holes
from the US lights on the H1/H4's and re-used stock screws.

All 4 mounting points are thus securely mounted.  I recommend removing
the grille to do all of this, its only 2 screws and it makes like alot
easier.  I did not need to remove the bumper.

As for the harness, I mounted relays that I got from Daniel Stern
Lighting next to the radiatior and drew current directly from the
alternator.  I ran grounds to the fender bolts.  Daniel Stern Lighting
has and excellent wiring diagram posted on the website and his relay
kit comes with the correct sockets for the H1/H4's.  The harness kit
which includes connectors, sockets, relay blocks and relays (no wires
included) was $55 and well worth it.  I have a few pics of all of this
that I can email to interested folks.

Abe
Burlington, VT
Current:  91 200tq 20v
Previous: 2 85 4kq's

> 
> I have the same setup and mine did not come with brackets either.  The
> top outboard bolt is the same as the US so no problems there.  The
> bottom two mounting ears required some dremel time on the US bracket
> to narrow up the tab so it would fit.  I also had to tweek it just a
> bit to change the spacing, but that was easy enough.  I left the
> inboard top bolt out.  You could likely rig it up also, but mine are
> so solid with 3 mounting points I didn't see the need.
> 
> You probably want to cut to the chase and remove the bumper first.
> You can do it without removing this, but you stand a chance of
> scratching the brushed metal trim as you likely have them in and out a
> number of times during the process.
> 
> I added another contact to my turn signals and made them double as
> marker lights through the use of dual filament bulbs.  Some day I
> might put the side markers on from a late model car, but it has not
> been a priority yet.
> 
> --
> 
> Eric Sanborn
> http://sofadog.net/4ktq/
> 
> ------------------------------