Fuel Pump Relay question

[Tom Love]

When the car does this have you tried popping the gas cap? If it tries to 
suck your arm in you may have found your problem.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Hall" <badcomrade at gmail.com>
To: <tlum at flash.net>
Cc: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2005 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Relay question


Yeah, I figured the temp sensor was fine.  The hall sender is fine.
When the Hall goes, the tach drops to 0 like a stone.  Same goes for
the coil, the ignition control module, and the fuel pump relay.  When
my car was stalling, it would "float" down which means that all the
electrical was in tact.  I've had recent vacuum problems that I fixed,
and checking those tells me they're still alright.  I looked at all
the other hoses and lines, and they don't have any cracks, etc.  The
air plate isn't sticking either.  I've swapped out the ECU for a spare
I have, and everything's ok there too.  I tested the idle / wot switch
last night... they both work (show a change on my multimeter when
they're activated)

I'm starting to wonder if the cap / rotor / plug wires are shot.  I've
had the car for about 2-3 years now, and don't know how long they've
been on the car.  I used to have a problem starting my 83 when it was
hot, and it was the cap & wires.  I haven't had a chance to look at
them / test the resistance yet (and don't know off hand what they
should be at).

I'm almost positive the ignition switch is fine as well...



> Sounds like your temp sensor is working.  IME, the sensor reads around
> 100 ohms fully warmed up.  When bad, they're usually open or read like
> 100K ohms cold.  Are you sure you're getting spark? Check the Hall
> sensor on the distributor.  Check the contacts and make sure all the
> wires are fully seated with no corrosion on the contacts.  It would also
> help to pull the connector on the ecu (next to the glove box) and see if
>  those contacts are good and that the signal wires from the sensor are
> also present on the ecu's connector.  Maker sure the idle/WOT switch is
> working.  Your F.I. system is CIS-E, which means that the grey
> differential pressure regulator that's attached to the fuel distributor
> should be receiving some current.  To measure this you have to make up
> an adapter to place a current meter in series with the DPR.  Should
> measure something like 8-10 mA under normal conditions.
>
> HTH,
>
> Tony
> '83 urq
>


-- 
Chris Hall
badcomrade at gmail.com
"making girls cry since 1974"
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