quattro Digest, Vol 19, Issue 63

Sat May 28 20:50:25 EDT 2005

You must not own many Audis if this is the first time you've done this.  Fun
job!  You nbeed to remove the shift boot and remove the handbrake assembly -
carefully obesrve how it al goes together, as you'll need to get things back
in correctly.  basically the whole assembly needs to be removed - rachet
mechanism, lever, etc.

At least one of the pins needs to be ground off and replaced with new  Find
the on that connects the most together.  you may evn need to replace 2 or 3
of the pins.  They will be ball peened on a vice, except for the last one
which retains everything.  Parts aren't expensive from dealer - time to
replace anything questionable - it's all labor - job time 2-5 hours
depending upon skill level and available tools.

If you are lucke the pin holding everything in will have a C-clip, but I
don't recall it being that easy.  Do it right - don't compromise on a safety
featur on the car.

Ben

[Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 13:43:49 -0400
From: Brendan Walsh <audicted42 at gmail.com>
Subject: E-brake repair, How to? 1987 4KCSQ
To: Q-list <quattro at audifans.com>
Message-ID: <3a548178050528104323d52722 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

So in hte process of replacing the rear brakes on my 4KQ, i managed to
break the threaded rod that connects the e-brake cables to the lever
in the cabin. So here's my question, how the heck does that sucker
come out? it appears to be part of the actual assembly of the lever,
bent around a pin at the handle end. Any BTDT's? Can i replace this
with some threaded rod from home cheapo (modified to fit of course) or
do i need to call my local parts store?
TIA
Brendan]
----- Original Message -----
From: <quattro-request at audifans.com>
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 8:08 PM
Subject: quattro Digest, Vol 19, Issue 63

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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of quattro digest..."
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>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: For all you Zmax fans ......... NAC (Brett Dikeman)
>    2. E-brake repair, How to? 1987 4KCSQ (Brendan Walsh)
>    3. RE: Fuel Pump Relay question (Jim Jordan)
>    4. Re: E-brake repair, How to? 1987 4KCSQ (Tony Hoffman)
>    5. Re: E-brake repair, How to? 1987 4KCSQ (Huw Powell)
>    6. Re: Audi Coupe GT temp sender question (Huw Powell)
>    7. 5K w/ S6 IC? (Mark and Aviva Woodland)
>    8. Re: Audi Coupe GT temp sender question (Chris Hall)
>    9. Re: Audi Coupe GT temp sender question (Huw Powell)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 13:19:11 -0400
> From: Brett Dikeman <brett at cloud9.net>
> Subject: Re: For all you Zmax fans ......... NAC
> To: LL - NY <larrycleung at gmail.com>
> Cc: Audi 20V <audi20v at rennlist.org>, John Larson
> <j.d.larson at verizon.net>, quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <E4E43DA1-F198-4DB6-93FD-93C89347AC1F at cloud9.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
>
>
> On May 28, 2005, at 11:00 AM, LL - NY wrote:
>
> > One would assume the actors and endorsers can plea ignorance.
> >
> > They could:    know nothing about automobiles, their function, etc.
> > After all, they're
> >                               professional actors, not auto
> > "technicians".
>
> Good point- but IMHO they're not presenting themselves as actors.
> They're presenting themselves as members of the public, and
> recounting what they present as personal experiences.  The companies
> that did "testing" presented themselves as qualified industry testing
> facilities.
>
>    The FTC transcript (I think?) lacked any subtitles to the effect
> of "professional actor"...just a "your results may vary".  If that
> story was handed to them, then claiming it was their experience on TV
> for the purpose of selling a product seems like fraud to me, and they
> were fully aware they were doing so.  I guess the actors can claim
> "they said they were going to put 'professional actor' at the bottom
> of the screen", but unless that's in writing in the contract, they'd
> have a hard time proving this.
>
> Of course, neither of us are lawyers, we just play ones on a mailing
> list :-)
>
> (reminds me of Barney Frank: "We're not just doctors, we play them on
> C-SPAN!")
>
> Brett
> --
> "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary
> safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin
> http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 13:43:49 -0400
> From: Brendan Walsh <audicted42 at gmail.com>
> Subject: E-brake repair, How to? 1987 4KCSQ
> To: Q-list <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <3a548178050528104323d52722 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> So in hte process of replacing the rear brakes on my 4KQ, i managed to
> break the threaded rod that connects the e-brake cables to the lever
> in the cabin. So here's my question, how the heck does that sucker
> come out? it appears to be part of the actual assembly of the lever,
> bent around a pin at the handle end. Any BTDT's? Can i replace this
> with some threaded rod from home cheapo (modified to fit of course) or
> do i need to call my local parts store?
> TIA
> Brendan
>
> --
> "To err is human, to repent divine; to persist devilish." -Ben Franklin
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 11:24:05 -0700
> From: "Jim Jordan" <superba at comcast.net>
> Subject: RE: Fuel Pump Relay question
> To: "'Jan Pinkowish'" <jpinkowish at earthlink.net>,
> <quattro at audifans.com>, <badcomrade at gmail.com>
> Message-ID: <20050528182407.92E6B6E25FA at audifans.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi,
>
> I haven't been monitoring for a long while, but I've read this thread for
a
> couple of days.  Try substituting a known good fuel pump relay;  if you
> don't have one, remove the circuitry of your current one from the box and
> examine the solder side of the circuit board for bad connections.
Sometimes
> the current draw will melt the circuit board connection;  I've seen this
on
> several relays.  If that appears okay, then (1) duh, check to see if your
> oil dipstick is thoroughly inserted and sealing, (2) check every ground
> within 10 feet, make that 20 and check the tail light grounding.
>
> My .02 worth;  HTH.
>
> Cheers
>
> Jim Jordan
> '81 5KT > 332K miles
>
> >  -----Original Message-----
> >  From: Jan Pinkowish [mailto:jpinkowish at earthlink.net]
> >  Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2005 10:13 AM
> >  To: quattro at audifans.com; badcomrade at gmail.com
> >  Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Relay question
> >
> >
> >  Chris Hall wrote:
> >  > Latest on my 85 Coupe GT
> >  >
> >  > I tried to "jump" the wires to the "NCT" (ECU coolant temp
> >  sensor) and
> >  > that didn't work.  I checked the resistance on that sensor, and it
> >  > came up to be 2700 ohms or something like that... which I
> >  think I've
> >  > read is pretty close to spec (2500 cold?).
> >  >
> >  > Last night I tried starting the car again, and it did that
> >  thing where
> >  > it starts to combust, but never kicks in all the way.  I
> >  know the fuel
> >  > pump -pumps- and I'm guessing it's providing enough
> >  pressure because I
> >  > think it's only 4 or so years old...
> >  >
> >  > Fuel pump relay appears to be working as it should, and I
> >  even jumped
> >  > the slots and still no starting.
> >  >
> >  > Someone please get back to me if that value for the ecu's
> >  coolant temp
> >  > sensor is way off...
> >  >
> >
> >  ...and Tony Lum replied
> >  > Sounds like your temp sensor is working.  IME, the sensor
> >  reads around
> >  > 100 ohms fully warmed up.  When bad, they're usually open
> >  or read like
> >  > 100K ohms cold.  Are you sure you're getting spark? Check the Hall
> >  > sensor on the distributor.  Check the contacts and make
> >  sure all the
> >  > wires are fully seated with no corrosion on the contacts.
> >  It would
> >  > also help to pull the connector on the ecu (next to the
> >  glove box) and
> >  > see if  those contacts are good and that the signal wires from the
> >  > sensor are also present on the ecu's connector.  Maker sure the
> >  > idle/WOT switch is working.  Your F.I. system is CIS-E,
> >  which means
> >  > that the grey differential pressure regulator that's
> >  attached to the
> >  > fuel distributor should be receiving some current.  To
> >  measure this
> >  > you have to make up an adapter to place a current meter in
> >  series with
> >  > the DPR.  Should measure something like 8-10 mA under
> >  normal conditions.
> >
> >  Chris,
> >  To expand on Tonys reply:
> >  Your ECU temp sensor should read 5.5k to 6.5k ohms at
> >  68degF.  When the car is fully warm, the sensor reads
> >  300-500 ohms.  As the sensor decreases in resistance, the
> >  ECU leans out the fuel mixture.  So, if the sensor is 2700
> >  ohms when the engine is cold, this may cause a bit of a cold
> >  start problem.  When the sensor fails, it doesn't change
> >  resistance.  If it fails high, the car starts fine, your
> >  fuel mixture remains rich and your MPG drops big time.  If
> >  it fails low, the engine is hard to start and runs rough
> >  until the operating temp comes up.
> >
> >  Get yourself a 10k ohm resistor and attach it to the temp
> >  sender leads.  If the car starts and runs smoothly, replace
> >  your temp sensor.
> >
> >  If that doesn't work, remember to check your "spare" fuse in
> >  the fuse box that controls the fuel pump reply/ECU.
> >
> >  After that, start with the basics described by Tony:
> >  --clean and uncracked dist cap/rotor
> >  --check your plugs for proper color and make sure the ig
> >  wire ends aren't cheesey --check your ignition wires for
> >  integrity/arcing(use the water mist in the dark method)
> >  --check for spark on each cylinder
> >
> >  HTH
> >
> >  Jan Pinkowish
> >  '85 4ksq
> >  Bristol, CT
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 14:06:53 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Tony Hoffman <tfh400036 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: E-brake repair, How to? 1987 4KCSQ
> To: Brendan Walsh <audicted42 at gmail.com>, quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <20050528210653.23092.qmail at web53910.mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Branden,
>
> If you can weld, I'd try to weld a threaded piece onto the end. Otherwise,
you have to pull the carpet and unbolt the whole assy.
>
> Tony Hoffman
>
> Brendan Walsh <audicted42 at gmail.com> wrote:
> So in hte process of replacing the rear brakes on my 4KQ, i managed to
> break the threaded rod that connects the e-brake cables to the lever
> in the cabin. So here's my question, how the heck does that sucker
> come out? it appears to be part of the actual assembly of the lever,
> bent around a pin at the handle end. Any BTDT's? Can i replace this
> with some threaded rod from home cheapo (modified to fit of course) or
> do i need to call my local parts store?
> TIA
> Brendan
>
> --
> "To err is human, to repent divine; to persist devilish." -Ben Franklin
> _______________________________________________
> quattro mailing list
> quattro at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
>  Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 17:34:43 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com>
> Subject: Re: E-brake repair, How to? 1987 4KCSQ
> To: Brendan Walsh <audicted42 at gmail.com>
> Cc: Q-list <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <4298E3F3.7020502 at humanspeakers.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> > So in hte process of replacing the rear brakes on my 4KQ, i managed to
> > break the threaded rod that connects the e-brake cables to the lever
> > in the cabin. So here's my question, how the heck does that sucker
> > come out? it appears to be part of the actual assembly of the lever,
> > bent around a pin at the handle end. Any BTDT's?
>
> Basically, yes.  Years ago I replaced that part on my coupe, since it
> was getting horribly rusted.  Audi does sell the threaded rod part
> separately - and the rivet it is held to the rest of the asssembly with.
>   Might as well install a new boot in the floor while you're at it.
>
> Not terribly expensive, but a bit of a pain.
>
> > Can i replace this
> > with some threaded rod from home cheapo (modified to fit of course) or
> > do i need to call my local parts store?
>
> Or... if there is some thread remaining, you could clean it up and get a
> threaded coupling (might be hard to find metric, though) and a bit more
> threaded rod or long section of bolt to extend what's left of it.
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 17:41:57 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com>
> Subject: Re: Audi Coupe GT temp sender question
> To: Chris Hall <badcomrade at gmail.com>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <4298E5A5.7080404 at humanspeakers.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
>
> > I have a feeling the temp sender that tells the ECU in my 85 CGT what
> > the engine temp is might be bad.
>
> Well, they are easy to test... just remove it, bring it into the kitchen
> along with your ohm meter, and prepare a container of ice water and a
> pan of boiling water.  When it is soaking in the ice water, it should
> read fairly high, around 2.5 k ohms as I recall.
>
> In the boiling water (be careful of the heat, and make sure your heat
> source doesn't hurt any of your wires) the resistance should be down to
> around 100 or so ohms.  If that checks out, it's fine.
>
> > Also, does anyone know when you can get one of those weird plug ends
> > that connects to the sensor?
>
> Parts cars, usually.
>
> By the way, did you replace all those molded vacuum and PCV hoses yet?
>
> Recheck control pressure actuator current at warm idle?
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 19:19:21 -0400
> From: "Mark and Aviva Woodland" <maviva at ptdprolog.net>
> Subject: 5K w/ S6 IC?
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID: <002a01c563db$e0724520$0100a8c0 at jds1>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Greetings folks,
> I just came up with an intercooler for an S6, and it just struck me (duh)
> that the typical upgrades for the 5000 TQ is the 200 20 valve
intercooler...
> not the S6. Now I'd venture a guess that the S6 IC is the better unit, but
> all fitment issues will be completely custom.
> Has anyone done this upgrade to a 5K, and ifso, any BTDTs would be
> appreciated.
> Best regards,
> Mark
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 19:00:13 -0500
> From: Chris Hall <badcomrade at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Audi Coupe GT temp sender question
> To: audi at humanspeakers.com
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <121ac73d05052817001c387337 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> So I went out to look at the car again today, and I popped the
> distributor cap off for the first time since my stalling / no start
> problem.  Each one of the terminals has so much carbon build-up on the
> bottom end (and also 3/4 of the rotor's tip), you wouldn't even know
> you were looking at metal if the top half wasn't still shiny.  Soooo,
> I'm guessing --maybe-- there's my problem.  I think I neglected to
> check it up to this point because I had convinced myself that it was a
> vacuum / wiring problem.
>
> I tested the wires to the plugs and the coil wire, and (forgive me if
> I have this backwards...) and the resistance was 6000 for the coil
> wire, and 2000 for the plug wires, or the other way around.  I'm
> guessing they're OK...
>
> I'll let you all know what happens when I find a Bosch cap and
> rotor... because PepBoys / AutoZone etc all carry caps that -don't-
> have the little pins in them that my plug wires clip on to (which I
> like).  Guess I'll have to wait until Tuesday for the good auto parts
> place to open  :)
>
>
>
> On 5/28/05, Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I have a feeling the temp sender that tells the ECU in my 85 CGT what
> > > the engine temp is might be bad.
> >
> > Well, they are easy to test... just remove it, bring it into the kitchen
> > along with your ohm meter, and prepare a container of ice water and a
> > pan of boiling water.  When it is soaking in the ice water, it should
> > read fairly high, around 2.5 k ohms as I recall.
> >
> > In the boiling water (be careful of the heat, and make sure your heat
> > source doesn't hurt any of your wires) the resistance should be down to
> > around 100 or so ohms.  If that checks out, it's fine.
> >
> > > Also, does anyone know when you can get one of those weird plug ends
> > > that connects to the sensor?
> >
> > Parts cars, usually.
> >
> > By the way, did you replace all those molded vacuum and PCV hoses yet?
> >
> > Recheck control pressure actuator current at warm idle?
> >
> > --
> > Huw Powell
> >
> > http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
> >
> > http://www.humanthoughts.org/
> >
>
>
> --
> Chris Hall
> badcomrade at gmail.com
> "making girls cry since 1974"
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2005 20:07:02 -0400
> From: Huw Powell <audi at humanspeakers.com>
> Subject: Re: Audi Coupe GT temp sender question
> To: Chris Hall <badcomrade at gmail.com>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <429907A6.6030908 at humanspeakers.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
>
> > So I went out to look at the car again today, and I popped the
> > distributor cap off for the first time since my stalling / no start
> > problem.  Each one of the terminals has so much carbon build-up on the
> > bottom end (and also 3/4 of the rotor's tip), you wouldn't even know
> > you were looking at metal if the top half wasn't still shiny.
>
> > I tested the wires to the plugs and the coil wire, and (forgive me if
> > I have this backwards...) and the resistance was 6000 for the coil
> > wire, and 2000 for the plug wires, or the other way around.  I'm
> > guessing they're OK...
>
> Try the mist with water in the dark test anyway... and at least pull a
> spark plug to see how they are.
>
> Sounds like the car is a bit overdue for a "tune up" (which these days
> means replacing parts *before* they go bad, on a years/miles schedule).
>
> While you're at it, how about a new air filter, if you don't know when
> the last one was done?
>
> --
> Huw Powell
>
> http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi
>
> http://www.humanthoughts.org/
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> quattro mailing list
> quattro at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro
>
>
> End of quattro Digest, Vol 19, Issue 63
> ***************************************