quattro Digest, Vol 25, Issue 37

[Mitchell Segal]

Hi Grant,

I know this might not sound like a very technical answer, but since you seem
to have a much higher rate of failures than anyone else, on a part that is
basically independant of all others that you're completely replacing, so the
problems shouldn't keep coming back, perhaps it's time to start looking at
how you use the switch differently compared to everyone else, that would
cause all these failures.

One thing that comes to mind is something I read a very long time ago.  Are
you one of these people who walk around with dozens of keys on their
keychain?  Do you have some heavy keychain bobbles along with your keys?
All that extra weight might be causing the problems.  

The theory used to be that the extra weight puts an unneccessary strain on
the switch/tumblers, causing a heavy pull downward all the time, putting
extra strain on the switch innards / contacts, thus wearing them out faster.


First I would dump about 1/2 of them which you probably don't ever use (put
them on a second ring, leave it in the glovebox).  Do you really need to
carry around your key to the shed or to the boat 365 days a year?

If you can't lose some keys, then try one of those key rings where you can
detach parts of it, and take off the car key when you drive.  Not only will
it reduce the weight, but you won't have that annoying jingle of car keys
rattling around and banging into your knees.

If you have a normal amount of keys (4-5 I would think is normal), then you
might want to start thinking about what else you could be doing different
that would cause all these failures.

- Do you use excessive twisting force on the key when starting?  (Holding
the key in the start position with excessive force)?
- Do you turn the wheel all the way and then lock it into place when you
remove the key, such that when you start the car the next day, there is so
much pressure on the lock that it's hard to turn the key without first
moving the steering wheel back an forth, to remove the pressure on the key
lock?

My guess is, if it's not the weight of the keys, then maybe it's the
steering wheel lock always putting a lot of pressure on the key lock, and
you're forcing the key to turn instead of first releasing the pressure by
turning the wheel.

When something like this fails so often for you, but so rarely for anyone
else, it usually ends up being something the driver is doing wrong.

Like the people who complain that their brakes don't last and they get poor
mileage, and then you take a look and you see that these are the people who
drive with their left foot on the brake, but who claim they're not putting
any weight on the brakes at all.

Hope this helps.
Mitchell



>Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2005 08:28:20 -0500
>From: Grant <gfl1 at optonline.net>
>Subject: Either odd no-start problem or the world record for broken
ignition switches - HEEEEELLPP!
>
>This is re; an A6Q 1995 (C4) auto.  Over the last <2 years, 3 ignition
switches have been replaced.  >The original for the "non return to start"
bugaboo, and two more for a different problem - the car >would crank but not
start, or crank-catch-die.
>
>This weekend #4 was replaced.
>This is getting to be a problem, and my mom (the owner/driver) is getting
scared to drive her car.
>
>Symptoms:
>a) car cranks great
>b) when it does run (its intermittent) it runs great. Might stall very
occasionally.
>c) no pre-run of fuel pump in "run" position
>d) no power to fuel pump/injectors/coil (e.g.: it is not a specific 
>problem in any one of those subsystems)
>
>This weekend, after two prof mechanics were stumped, and after I spent
several hors looking over 
>ECU wiring, harnesses, etc., I put a new switch in and all was right in the
world. Starts and runs >perfectly.
>
>So what could make switches die on 3-4 month intervals, after the 
>original going 8+ years?
>
>Thanks all!
>
>Grant