85 4kq intermittent loss of electrical power

[Robert M]

  Nice post; I'm saving this one.

>From: SJ <syljay at optonline.net>
>To: quattro at audifans.com
>Subject: Re: 85 4kq intermittent loss of electrical power
>Date: Tue, 08 Aug 2006 11:22:43 -0400
>
> > From: "thorkq" <thorkq at gmail.com>
> > To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> > >
> > > engine starts cutting out.
>. But then the cutouts got longer and more
> > > frequent. I noticed that while the cutout was occurring I would seem
> > > to loose power to my accessories, like the turn signals, and the
> > > battery icon on the dash would light up. I would coast for a few
> > > seconds and everything would be fine, engine starts running, turn
> > > signals work, battery icon goes off.
>
>**** First thing to check is the fuel pump electrical connections. On my 85
>4k, the FP connections were spring type clip-ons. The contacts would heat
>up, expand, and lose electrical contact -- fuel pump would stop. After
>sitting along the side of the road for 10 minutes or so, the contacts would
>cool off, shrink, and electrical contact established.
>I removed the electrical connections, cleaned them, put them back on AND
>ADDED A WASHER AND NUT. That fixed the problem.
>If its not the pump, as you suggest, because electrical stuff dont work, 
>how
>about attaching a wire to the coil B+ connection and connect to a voltmeter
>inside the car. If the cutout occurs and you see no voltage on the meter .
>.then you know its most likely the ignition switch problem.
>
>Intermittant problems are a bitch to find. If it was me, I would attach
>several wires to strategic test points(make one of these a good ground) and
>run the wires inside the passenger compartment. (running 10 wires is just 
>as
>easy as running 1). Put small bolts into a piece of wood and terminate each
>wire at a bolt, and label the bolt locations with test point information.
>Use a systematic approach . .linear path for current (voltage) thru system.
>When the car fails again, you can quickly check each wire for B+.
>For example: #1 is battery, #2 is battery side of ign switch, #3 is run 
>side
>of ign switch, #4 is B+ side of Ign coil,  . . .etc.
>
>When a failure does occurrs, and you get voltage at #2, but not at #3, you
>know its the ignition switch.
>Oh, and use a lamp bulb for checking voltages, in addition to the 
>voltmeter.
>Voltmeter has a high impedance and may show 12 volts . . .like thru a 1 meg
>ohm resistor(bad contact) . .but 0 volts when you put a load on. The light
>bulb wont light up if there is a high resistance connection.
>I've been fooled more than once with a high resistance connection which
>shows 12 volts on the meter. And you end up wasting a lot of time chasing
>your tail.
>
>Oh yes, and redo ALL your ground connections. No ground, no current flow - 
>-
>but the voltmeter will show 12 volts everywhere.
>Inspect each ground cable/contact . . .unbolt it . .clean it . .clean the
>chassis/engine mounting surface . .bolt it.
>
>
>SJ
>85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
>85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
>88 Audi 5kq
>90 Audi 100q
>
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