NAC: The Tightest Lug Nuts Ever

[Brett Dikeman]

On Aug 14, 2006, at 12:41 PM, TooManyAudis at aol.com wrote:

> I always put a jackstand under the socket extension near the  
> breaker bar  to
> prevent twisting on the bolt head and socket.

You're also changing force to torque more directly.  Any time you  
torque a bolt, pull with one hand, push on the head with the other.   
Read a guide to using a torque wrench some time- it covers this and  
more.

>   I do this with for the  wheel
> bolts when doing suspension work or replacing an axle shaft as  
> well.   All four
> tires on the ground for either of these, to prevent a nasty  fall.

I break wheel lugs loose with an impact wrench.  It's just so much  
faster and easier, it's not even funny.  I also get them started and  
spin them in with the impact wrench (at the lowest setting, with a  
cheapo air hose, doesn't come close to torquing the bolt.)

I also cleaned all the threads on my lugs recently- degreased them,  
then ran a wire brush on them, then wiped them with a very light coat  
of Boeshield.  The hub was flushed with brake cleaner and a small brush.

They go in smoothly, and torque -much- more smoothly.  Just don't  
forget the 'star' pattern, partial torquing first (I also whack the  
tire with my fist in a few places to help it settle on the rim), then  
final torque to spec.  Check after driving around the block, and  
again after a 15-30 minute drive.  I've had a few nasty surprises  
from failing to do any of the above.

Oh, and make sure the wheel, hub, and rotor faces are all clean of  
rust.  Apply a light coat of anti-seize to them ALL, and a heavy coat  
around the hub collar.  The OEM BBS wheels in particular love to  
stick to the hub so hard I had to use a gear puller once.

Brett