Front Seat Disassembly
mike
mikemk40 at yahoo.com
Wed Dec 20 03:41:50 EST 2006
He got banned for drunk driving, I suspect the ban is
finished now but post ban insurance in the UK is
scarily expensive and likely to preclude him driving
anything with a turbo for the next 6 or 10 years.
His website has changed focus and now concentrates on
the computer side but all the quattro stuff is still
there.
http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/index.html
maybe we'll see him again sometime, he's been a great
help to me in the past
--- Richard J Lebens <rick-l at rocketmail.com> wrote:
> Here is something I saved from Phil Payne. Anyone
> know what happend to him and curbside motors?
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From:
> "isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk"
> <isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk>
> To: pajono at ctconnect.com; quattro at audifans.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 2:53:38 AM
> Subject: Rebuilding seats
>
>
> > Anyone ever take apart an Audi front seat? I need
> to replace the
> > bottom cushion in my drivers seat (90 90q), and
> I'm wondering if this
> > is something I can tackle myself. It's a cloth
> non power (but
> > heated) seat if that helps.
>
> It's in the archives - search for 'hawg'. I dumped
> out the archived
> post and rewrote the whole thing for the
> December/January club
> newsletter:
>
> The Hawg Ring Lunge
>
> Many ur-quattros that we see have collapsed
> side bolsters in
> the driver's seat (look for foam crumbs
> underneath) and/or
> failed seat heaters. It seems appropriate to
> discuss
> repairing these at this time of year - it's a
> job you can do
> inside the house, a firm right bolster is worth
> 10 mph in a
> left-hand bend, and a nice warm bum is lovely
> on a cold
> morning.
>
> The seats are very easy to remove - a 5mm Allen
> screw and a
> 10mm nut secure the front of the slider and two
> screws secure
> plastic bits at the rear of the runners. Line
> the rear
> footwell with newspaper so you don't get grease
> on the
> carpet. Don't forget to unplug the heater
> cable and, on a
> WR, the driver's side seatbelt warning switch.
> Finds under
> the front carpet invariably include a boiled
> sweet (factory
> fitted?) and a couple of pounds in small coins.
> More unusual
> finds have included an unopened pack of gum,
> toilet
> requisites and live ammunition.
>
> Once back in the warm and dry, check the
> plastic side panels
> in good light. Each side is secured by three
> little dowels
> pushed into expanding clips. When these dowels
> are removed,
> the panels just pull off. Make a careful note
> of the wire
> locations in the heater plug, and undo it to
> release the
> wires. Remove the rake adjustment knob - it's
> held on by
> three tongues and you can reach inside the back
> of it with a
> hook and pull them off one by one. Don't worry
> - a new knob
> is only £3. Once it's off, remove the
> adjustment mechanism.
> The back is held to the base by two clevis pin
> type fittings
> with push-in clips - just pull them off and
> stretch the arms
> out over the pins. The seat should now be in
> two pieces.
>
> To remove the lower cover, you will have to
> remove the two
> bushes onto which the catch engages when the
> seat is locked
> in its normal position. If these bushes (part
> 171 881 299C)
> are worn, replacing them can cure a lot of seat
> rattle for
> very little money - about £1 a seat. Code 01Z
> is dark brown,
> code 01C is satin black. If the seat base is
> loose in the
> runners, new guide pieces are about the same
> price.
>
> If the seatback squeaks loudly when wiggled
> from side to
> side, the usual cause is a fatigue crack in one
> or both top
> corners of the seatback frame and this will
> have to be
> welded. Get the welder to insert a supporting
> fillet -
> Recaro's design is not the best. Didn't you
> know the stock
> seats are Recaro? Check out the stickers on
> the seatback
> frame. The rear seat cover comes off fairly
> easily - the
> headrest has to be removed to get its plastic
> fixings out of
> the seatback. While the seatback is
> dismantled, check the
> cable that operates the catch - it frays at the
> nylon runner
> halfway down the back. If you need a new
> cable, take care to
> get the correct one - there are six different
> part numbers
> based on your VIN number, and even then they're
> not always
> correct. It's a good idea to go to the dealer
> armed with the
> length of the old cable in millimetres - valid
> numbers are
> 342, 363, 370, 580, 689 and 765. Running
> repairs can be made
> with bicycle brake cable fixed with double
> screw blocks cut
> out of domestic 15 amp terminal blocks.
>
> If you're repairing the heater, check the
> backrest and base
> for continuity. The elements are wired in
> series, and a
> break in either will stop both from working.
> Some people
> have successfully repaired breaks by soldering,
> but it's
> tricky as the elements are a silver alloy and
> ordinary solder
> doesn't work very well.
>
> Remove the seat cover you're interested in.
> This will
> usually be the base. You'll need good side
> cutters to cut
> the hog rings that secure the cover to the
> steel wires passed
> through the cushions. More of this later.
> Count the rings
> you cut and clear out all the fragments.
>
> The replacement element (443 963 555S, £98 +
> VAT) goes inside
> the seat cover. Don't be tempted just to lay
> it on the seat
> cushion underneath the cover - it will then be
> underneath the
> foam in the seat cover and will hardly warm
> your bum at all.
>
> Lay the cover out, surface facing down and lay
> the
> replacement element on top to get the
> orientation. Note that
> the wires should come towards you - not towards
> the seat
> cover surface. Otherwise you'll feel the lump
> when sitting
> on the seat. You can see that you'll have to
> cut two slits
> with a very sharp knife in the cloth backing of
> the seat
> cover to thread each arm of the element through
> - it comes
> out the other end and the tab is folded over.
>
> You actually cut through the cloth backing and
> the thin foam
> layer - the element slides in right behind the
> old element,
> which stays in place. Don't even think about
> removing it. A
> ruler is ideal for pushing the new element
> through. Cut the
> slits with the knife held over at 45 degrees -
> otherwise
> you'll get a small ridge in the seat when
> reassembled. Use a
> knife with disposable blades - it will be blunt
> before you're
> done.
>
>
=== message truncated ===
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