Front Seat Disassembly

Wed Dec 20 03:41:50 EST 2006

He got banned for drunk driving, I suspect the ban is
finished now but post ban insurance in the UK is
scarily expensive and likely to preclude him driving
anything with a turbo for the next 6 or 10 years.

His website has changed focus and now concentrates on
the computer side but all the quattro stuff is still
there.

http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/index.html

maybe we'll see him again sometime, he's been a great
help to me in the past

--- Richard J Lebens <rick-l at rocketmail.com> wrote:

> Here is something I saved from Phil Payne.  Anyone
> know what happend to him and curbside motors?
> 
> ----- Original Message ----
> From:
> "isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk"
> <isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk>
> To: pajono at ctconnect.com; quattro at audifans.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 30, 2000 2:53:38 AM
> Subject: Rebuilding seats
> 
> 
> > Anyone ever take apart an Audi front seat? I need
> to replace the
> > bottom cushion in my drivers seat (90 90q), and
> I'm wondering if this
> > is something I can tackle myself.  It's a cloth
> non power (but
> > heated) seat if that helps.
> 
> It's in the archives - search for 'hawg'.  I dumped
> out the archived
> post and rewrote the whole thing for the
> December/January club
> newsletter:
> 
>      The Hawg Ring Lunge
> 
>      Many ur-quattros that we see have collapsed
> side bolsters in
>      the driver's seat (look for foam crumbs
> underneath) and/or
>      failed seat heaters.  It seems appropriate to
> discuss
>      repairing these at this time of year - it's a
> job you can do
>      inside the house, a firm right bolster is worth
> 10 mph in a
>      left-hand bend, and a nice warm bum is lovely
> on a cold
>      morning.
> 
>      The seats are very easy to remove - a 5mm Allen
> screw and a
>      10mm nut secure the front of the slider and two
> screws secure
>      plastic bits at the rear of the runners.  Line
> the rear
>      footwell with newspaper so you don't get grease
> on the
>      carpet.  Don't forget to unplug the heater
> cable and, on a
>      WR, the driver's side seatbelt warning switch. 
> Finds under
>      the front carpet invariably include a boiled
> sweet (factory
>      fitted?) and a couple of pounds in small coins.
>  More unusual
>      finds have included an unopened pack of gum,
> toilet
>      requisites and live ammunition.
> 
>      Once back in the warm and dry, check the
> plastic side panels
>      in good light.  Each side is secured by three
> little dowels
>      pushed into expanding clips.  When these dowels
> are removed,
>      the panels just pull off.  Make a careful note
> of the wire
>      locations in the heater plug, and undo it to
> release the
>      wires.  Remove the rake adjustment knob - it's
> held on by
>      three tongues and you can reach inside the back
> of it with a
>      hook and pull them off one by one.  Don't worry
> - a new knob
>      is only £3.  Once it's off, remove the
> adjustment mechanism.
>      The back is held to the base by two clevis pin
> type fittings
>      with push-in clips - just pull them off and
> stretch the arms
>      out over the pins.  The seat should now be in
> two pieces.
> 
>      To remove the lower cover, you will have to
> remove the two
>      bushes onto which the catch engages when the
> seat is locked
>      in its normal position.  If these bushes (part
> 171 881 299C)
>      are worn, replacing them can cure a lot of seat
> rattle for
>      very little money - about £1 a seat.  Code 01Z
> is dark brown,
>      code 01C is satin black.  If the seat base is
> loose in the
>      runners, new guide pieces are about the same
> price.
> 
>      If the seatback squeaks loudly when wiggled
> from side to
>      side, the usual cause is a fatigue crack in one
> or both top
>      corners of the seatback frame and this will
> have to be
>      welded.  Get the welder to insert a supporting
> fillet -
>      Recaro's design is not the best.  Didn't you
> know the stock
>      seats are Recaro?  Check out the stickers on
> the seatback
>      frame.  The rear seat cover comes off fairly
> easily - the
>      headrest has to be removed to get its plastic
> fixings out of
>      the seatback.  While the seatback is
> dismantled, check the
>      cable that operates the catch - it frays at the
> nylon runner
>      halfway down the back.  If you need a new
> cable, take care to
>      get the correct one - there are six different
> part numbers
>      based on your VIN number, and even then they're
> not always
>      correct.  It's a good idea to go to the dealer
> armed with the
>      length of the old cable in millimetres - valid
> numbers are
>      342, 363, 370, 580, 689 and 765.  Running
> repairs can be made
>      with bicycle brake cable fixed with double
> screw blocks cut
>      out of domestic 15 amp terminal blocks.
> 
>      If you're repairing the heater, check the
> backrest and base
>      for continuity.  The elements are wired in
> series, and a
>      break in either will stop both from working. 
> Some people
>      have successfully repaired breaks by soldering,
> but it's
>      tricky as the elements are a silver alloy and
> ordinary solder
>      doesn't work very well.
> 
>      Remove the seat cover you're interested in. 
> This will
>      usually be the base.  You'll need good side
> cutters to cut
>      the hog rings that secure the cover to the
> steel wires passed
>      through the cushions.  More of this later. 
> Count the rings
>      you cut and clear out all the fragments.
> 
>      The replacement element (443 963 555S, £98 +
> VAT) goes inside
>      the seat cover.  Don't be tempted just to lay
> it on the seat
>      cushion underneath the cover - it will then be
> underneath the
>      foam in the seat cover and will hardly warm
> your bum at all.
> 
>      Lay the cover out, surface facing down and lay
> the
>      replacement element on top to get the
> orientation.  Note that
>      the wires should come towards you - not towards
> the seat
>      cover surface.  Otherwise you'll feel the lump
> when sitting
>      on the seat.  You can see that you'll have to
> cut two slits
>      with a very sharp knife in the cloth backing of
> the seat
>      cover to thread each arm of the element through
> - it comes
>      out the other end and the tab is folded over.
> 
>      You actually cut through the cloth backing and
> the thin foam
>      layer - the element slides in right behind the
> old element,
>      which stays in place. Don't even think about
> removing it.  A
>      ruler is ideal for pushing the new element
> through.  Cut the
>      slits with the knife held over at 45 degrees -
> otherwise
>      you'll get a small ridge in the seat when
> reassembled.  Use a
>      knife with disposable blades - it will be blunt
> before you're
>      done.
> 
> 
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