CIS Problem?--AGAIN!!!

L DC ldc007usa at yahoo.com
Fri Jun 16 08:52:16 EDT 2006


Here we go again with the CIS :(

Need advise.

I thought the CIS issue in my '86KTQ was solved last
time when I got it running but did not drive the car
until a couple of leaks were fixed.

Anyway, its been raining on and off here in south Fl
for the past 3 weeks and in one of those days that did
not, I decided to start the car again and it didn't.

So no big deal, I said to myself and decided to do the
procedure at the bottom of this msg as I did before to
get it started. Only this time, after inserting a fuse
on top of fuel pump relay and turning the ignition key
to the on position, I smelled burnt wire and actually
saw little fumes emanating from the fuel box area.

This happened about 4 seconds after I turned ignition
key so I proceeded to turn it back off. Did not even
get to lift metering plate to "prime" injectors to see
if that would get it started.

Anyway, the little metal bridge on the fuel pump fuse
(#13, 15AMPs) which is suppose to break when a short
or system overload never did, and, instead it
sweltered all its surrounding literally creating a
little cloudy bubble in the supposed breakpoint.

What the heck happened? 

Then I recalled Cody noting how his silver 5K's,
former Mike Arman car, fuel pump/ wiring harness
shorted itself out to the point of toasting following
some rain falling into the fuse box?

My car's hood was closed and so was the lid that
protects the fuse box. Could mere humidity alone had
cause the short in the case of my 5K?

Anyway, I decided to wait until weather clear for at
least 2 day before trying again the procedure Cody
described.

The past 2 days have been scorching hot here in Fl so
I decided to give it a try.

I placed a fuse on top of the fuel pump and proceeded
to turn ignition key to on and then lifted metering
plate and nothing happened. No injector spraying
noise, no distributor noise, no fuel pump noise.

Turned ignition key off.

Turned back on.

Tried it a second time only to have fuel pump fuse
blow.

Tried it a third and I then heard distributor making
noise but still no injector noise as I lift plate.

Tried it a few more times with 3 different fuel pump
relays and nothing other than distributor noise. 

Tried it one more time and this time I heard, again,
distributor and fuel pump running but it cuts off 5
seconds later with distributor noise still going.

Tried it yet again and heard fuel pump running and
again cuts off after 5 seconds and this time I hear a
"tick tack, tick tack, tick tack," as a clock noise
coming from the injectors without me messing around
with the metering plate.

In between, at times, I would take fuse off the top of
the fuel pump and cranked engine to no avail and in
the last two attempts of cranking the engine over, I
could hear fuel pump running and cutting off about 3
seconds after cranking with ignition key still on the
on position.

The fuel pump is brand new and so is the timing
reference sensor.

At the end I ended up with 2 blown fuel pump fuses.

I tried pulling the codes and if I read it correctly
it gave me either

4444 or 4441?

I'm not an expert at reading these, yet.

That or those codes could also been old ones though
that had not been cleared?

Your input is greatly appreciated.

-Best Regards,

-Louis



LDC wrote:
> Hi All!!
> CIS/fuel distributor problem?
> >
> Thanks for your help in advance.
>
> -Louis


Cody Wrote:


First off, CIS = Problem.

To lift metering plate undo the clips on the air
filter box and then get your hand in there and push 
the plate up from the bottom side.


You may just take the air filter box cover off
completely and replace the filter while its out, I
know yours is old.

When you go to do this you should insert a fuse into
the top of your fuel pump relay. This will turn the
pump on any time the key is in the run position. Then
what you do is move the plate up by hand from
underneath as I described above (with thepump
running).

You should feel some resistance, not alot, but it
should take some effort to move it and you will hear
the injectors spray - it sounds like a jet engine
starting up as you lift the plate, and they are
resonably loud, theres no mistaking it.

If there is no resistance in the plate then you have
either the fuel distibutor piston stuck all the way up
(unlikely, you would hear the injectors going full 
bore at all times and the engine would hydrolock), or
there is no "control pressure" meaning no fuel
pressure being delivered to the top half of 
the fuel distributor.

If you don't have the 5ktq fuel pump relay with a fuse
spot in the top of it then you can simply remove the
cover off of the relay and have a buddy 
manually operate the relay even when the key is turned
off.

Theres only 1 part on the relay that moves, push it
towards the center of the relay and the pump turns on.

Try that test and get back to us, that will at least
give me and hopefully others a better idea of whats
going on.



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