CIS Problem?--AGAIN!!!

L DC ldc007usa at yahoo.com
Fri Jun 16 12:28:14 EDT 2006


Thanks for your input Ben.

Oh, one more observation I forgot to mentioned in the
prior post.

While ignition key to the on position and fuse on top
of the fuel relay, I took a power tester, light not
multi-meter, and I got power at 2 of the terminals. On
one of the terminal, the light came kind of dimmed
while on the opposite-end terminal, the light came on
quite bright.

Also, and although I filled the tank with about 4
gallons of premium fuel about 1 month ago, the fuel
gauge needle doesn’t even budge. It did show slightly
above reserve last time I started the car.

Before, the fuel gauge needle would also move by
simply turning the key to the on position and holding
key for more than 5 seconds, it doesn’t now.

I have a few Qs based on your response Ben.

+++++

Ben wrote:

You have a fuel leakdown, sounds like you need to
solve that problem since it is only leading to other
problems
. You need to find the source of leakdown –
my bet is you need new injectors, as the problem you
describe indicates that is where the leakdown is.  Bet
you spend the $250 or so replacing them and the
starting issues go away – that is if your wiring is
undamaged.

+++++

How does a fuel leak-down come about/develop,
specially on an injector of this type?

I take this as fuel being leaked into the combustion
chamber, and if so, shouldn’t it ignite when cranking
engine given there’s spark as I did?

These injectors go bad, just like that? I mean they
were working fine 3 or 4 weeks ago, or so I thought
so.
Also, from what I can see these type of injectors,
unlike EFI, are nothing more nozzle sprayers? 

If they leak, does that mean they have some kind of
internal seal that has gone bad?

I’m sorry for all the Qs, just curious to know a bit
more about these injector failures based on real world
experience.

+++++

Ben wrote:
I recommend relaying your fuel pump at this time –
positioning the relay under the seat near the battery.
 This will alleviate some of the load from the pump. 
Although the 5000 wiring was better than the earlier
models, benefits are always gained by moving the
switching nearer to the load which is in this case
conveniently located near the power source.

+++++

I take it you have performed this task before and if
so, how much disassembling, chasing/tracing of wiring
harness and or trim does it involved?

Can one simply take the connections from the fuse box
involving fuel pump wiring harness and migrate it back
near the battery, making the necessary wire
trimming/replacing?


Thanks again in advance.

-Best regards,

-Louis


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