[s-cars] Stuck Lug Bolts

[Robert Rossato]

Snap-on makes a 36" 3/4dr bar.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=14996&group_ID=419&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

They make timing belt jobs a piece of cake.  No extensions needed.

You can find them cheaper on Ebay if you find the right deal.  I got a brand new one for $26.  Their current crop is actually a little shorter.  They used to be 39" with an overall length of around 42" when you include the drive head, though they would occasionally get a very slight bend to them when people over loaded them.  So they upped the diameter of the bar and shortened it a few inches.  You'll find both styles on ebay, though keep in mind that you'll have to get the proper head attachments for whichever one you get due to the differences in diameter between the old and new style.

They're also very useful for breaking up pallets to feed a bon fire when camping at the track.

Bob

---- Mark R <speedracer.mark at gmail.com> wrote: 
> What manufacturer is the 36" breaker bar?  I used to have a 32" or 36"
> breaker bar and here's how I lost it:
> My plant manager was displaying a cut lip and broken tooth to my mother as
> he told us about how his really long breaker bar snapped and hit his face.
> By his own admission, it was made in China.  Anyhow, my mother decided that
> one of my favorite tools, my 3/4" super-long breaker bar needed to
> disappear.  I laughed, and said it was a major brand, not made in China, and
> I'm careful.  Fast-forward a month or two.  Guess what's missing?
> 
> I've got a large tool box filled with all kinds of expensive SK, Facom,
> torque wrenches, specialty tools, etc.  The ONLY thing mission was my 3/4"
> breaker bar and attached 3/4" to 1/2" adapter.  To this day, she denies
> taking it.
> 
> Since then, I've been hunting for a replacement.  Snap-On and SK have 24" or
> 25", but nothing 30+ inches in either 3/4" or 1/2" drive.  Same with
> Stanley/Proto, etc.  I swore my old 3/4" was a Proto, but I must be
> incorrect.  So any leads would be appreciated.  And I'll buy 3.  One for my
> tool box, one for the track, and one for my mother!
> 
> Mark Rosenkrantz
> 
> 
> On 10/6/06, Abe Berman <yellowcuda at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Thank you to all those who provided BTDT's and advice.  I was able to
> > remove the remainder of the lug bolts yesterday.
> >
> > Casualties of the battle were a couple of junkyard acquired Audi/VAG
> > lug wrenches that cracked from used a cheater pipe on the end (don't
> > worry, plenty more where those came from) and a sears 17MM laser
> > etched socket, that cracked right away when using 3 foot breaker bar
> > plus 3 foot cheater bar.  Once again, Sears happily replaced it when I
> > went and picked up a 17MM deep impact 6 point socket for $10.99 last
> > night.
> >
> > After soaking the bolts daily in Kroil all week and then hammering the
> > heads with a 32oz hammer and a cruddy el-cheapo 6" extension I had
> > lying around as a "drift" I was able to crack all of the bolts with
> > the breaker bar and cheater with relative ease and no damage to the
> > wheels.
> >
> > FYI, the airgun that I was using at the shop around the corner was
> > pretty beefy, apparently the kroil all week and the hammering did the
> > trick.
> >
> > I will be order a few fresh lug bolts to replace the semi rounded ones
> > and cleaning the others with a wire brush and the vice.
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Abe
> >
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