Just bought a 90Qs 20V with a "few" issues.

Richard J Lebens rick-l at rocketmail.com
Sat Oct 7 12:27:40 EDT 2006


There is a 20V specific mail list but there are fewer and fewer members
as time goes on for reasons mentioned below (12) in your questions and
expense of maintaining these cars. 
http://www.rennlist.org/scripts/lyris.pl?enter=audi20v



--- Tigran Varosyan <tigran at tigran.com> wrote:

> Hi guys,
> 
> I just bought a beautiful '91 Audi 90Q. It has every option but came
> for a
> low price due to a bunch of minor issues.
> 
> I have driven the car bout 50 miles now and I got a list of
> questions/issues
> that I hope the group can help me with...
> 
> #1 Driver side door lock does not work. I hope that this is the same
> problem
> as described in this article:
> http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/body.html#Door%20Lock%20Repair
> 
> #2 Engine coolant gage does not seem to be working - it is always
> showing
> low. However, at the same time, the car heater is not very hot. The
> radiator
> and engine get *warm* but not as hot as I would expect. I bought a
> new
> thermostat - something tells me that the one in there is stuck
> open...

Most likely the Multi Function Temperature Switch.  About $90 and lasts
for 2 years.  Ignore the gage, it it is redundant.
 
> #3 The oil temp gage is also showing 60c and does not move. I refuse
> to
> believe this number - must be broken - please instruct how to
> test/fix.
> 
> #4 Driver side rear window does not roll down. Please advice on
> common
> causes.
> 

Get put the Radio Shack voltmeter.

> #5 Driver side headlight cracked - please advise a good source for a
> replacement. Are there any improved "euro" or other headlights that I
> should
> look at getting?

$$$$$$$$

> #6 One of the foglights is also cracked - where should I get it?

$$$$$$$$$

> 
> #7 I might need to post a picture of this as it's hard to describe...
> Between the front bumper and the grill there is a molding stripe that
> is
> held down by two screws located behind the headlight washers. The
> covers
> that go over these screws are missing - where do I get them?


I think you are describing the covers that go over the screws that hold
the bumper on, two 6" long screws with hex sockets?  Removing the
bumper is a common maintenance routine.  As to where to get those body
colored covers best find a junkyard and get lucky

 
> #8 I own a pair of Audi 4000's nether of which I have driven much
> lately. It
> may be that I am just spoiled by my VR4 daily driver (Dynoed at 380hp
> 420tq
> on the ground), but My Audi 90 is feeling a bit under-powered to me.
> The
> engine feels and sounds strong, but the power is just not there... I
> checked
> the air filter... Seemed ok... I have driven a 90 a few years and I
> remember
> it having quite a bit more power... Any ideas?
> 
> #9 It seems that by design, the rear diff lock disengages at a
> certain speed
> around 20mph. This is very annoying! I would like to keep the diff
> locked
> when playing in the gravel at 60-80mph. How to I override this
> "feature"?

WTF???  Plenty of ways to play with the torsen differential without
being stupid.

 
> #10 The E-brake completely does not work. When pulling the handle, I
> feel no
> resistance. Common possible issues?

Time to get dirty and crawl under the car

 
> #11 The Oil pressure gage gets pegged at 5BAR at around 3000RPM. Is
> this
> normal or is the gage not working properly? The gouge response also
> seems
> very slow. I have Greddy gauges in my VR4, which seem to react much
> more in
> tune with RPM.

You have the center console gage option.  Mine varies with RPM so I
would guess the sender is failing.

> 
> #12 Again, maybe I am just not used to it, but this motor seems to
> have an
> issue with running momentum - as if the flywheel is REALLY heavy.
> When
> hitting the clutch, it takes it quite a long time to rev down. I am
> used to
> downshifting when getting off a freeway or coming to a red light. In
> this
> car it does not work so well as the engine tends to want to keep
> running and
> does not slow the car much for 2-4 seconds... Is this normal?
> 
> #13 The back of the passenger headlight seems to have a hose that
> leads to
> the header heatshield. Could someone please explain to me what the
> heck this
> is and what's it for?

Sure this doesn't go to the air filter?  (also major PITA)


> 
> #14 Although they worked on the test drive, my high beams do not work
> at
> all. When turning them on, the low beams cut out and I have no light.
> Tapping the passing light switch does nothing. I will check fuses and
> relays
> tomorrow. Any description of where to locate them would be of much
> help...
> 
> #15 The driver side front seat has seen better days. What's the
> solution? 
>

$$$$$$$$$

 
> #16 I already bought the car, but I would not mind having a CarFax
> for it.
> Does anyone have an account?
> 

Hitachi injectors good?  $250 each  (may be Bosch hack replacement)

Crankcase oil vent update installed?

Plastic distributor gear death rattle on decell?

Rubber side moldings ($$$$$) peeling?

$150 front brake rotors due to factories random selection of brakes?

Hole in exhaust where the hangers fail and it rubs on the drive shaft? 


> Thanks,
> 
> Tyson Varosyan
> Technical Manager, Uptime Technical Solutions LLC.
> tyson at up-times.com
> www.up-times.com 
> 206-715-TECH (8324)
> UpTime/OnTime/AnyTime 
> 
> 
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> ---
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> 


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