Megaquirt V2.2 5 cyl configuration

[Ameer Antar]

I would double check you're getting the right ignition timing. Use a timing
light if you have one. Of course, make sure everything lines up: the flywheel,
cam, distributor and wires. Any codes from the Audi ECU?
 
Also, you mention you're using high-impedance injectors. A lot of aftermarket
ECU's are setup for low-impedance peak-and-hold injectors. Make sure you can
set that up on the control unit. You won't hurt the ECU, but I don't think the
injector will be squirting enough fuel if it's setup for peak-and-hold. 
 
You might double check the compression. Hopefully the 20V cam timing wasn't too
far off...
 
-Ameer 


-------------------- Original Message --------------------
 > Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 21:02:33 -0400
> From: "Ben Swann" [benswann at comcast.net]
> Subject: RE: Megaquirt V2.2 5 cyl configuration
> To: "'Ingo Rautenberg'" [ingo.rautenberg at gmail.com]
> Cc: urq at audifans.com, quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: [006f01c7879e$a4b9a1c0$6401a8c0 at swansong]
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="US-ASCII"
>
> Thanks for prior replies and now the Latest - I am trying to figure why I
> can't get this engine to start. Won't even fire when starting fluid is added
> despite the presence of strong spark. It should not be ignition timing as
> this is a single window hall distributor and timing is adjusted by ECU and
> needs to be in window - which is dead on.
>
> I corrected a problem I found with the cam timing being off as I am using a
> supertorque 20V cam sprocket from Techtonics Tuning and the rear mark did not
> correspond to the stock 10V cam sprocket - this all of course with a
> supertorque belt and crank sprocket from 20V engine. Anyway the cam timing is
> corrected now by remarking ala. 10V and I readjusted the sprocket and set the
> hall distributor to be back "in window". Maybe I need to verify the coil
> wires aren't off by one, but there is good strong spark getting through. Yet
> no sign of firing - this will likely be my next check - to rotate the wires by
> one in either direction, but basically I have done quite a number of MC single
> window setups and this should be correct.
>
> The MS unit is registering the tach signal and indications it is working - and
> checked out fine with the stimulator. I have yet to get the diagnostics light
> for MAC-14 hooked up and need to locate some connectors for the early OBD
> setup that were cut from the harness.
>
> I disconnected the fuel pump to make sure it wasn't flooded, but after hooking
> up and trying again, no start.  Not even trying to fire or even backfire!
>
> Engine does crank rather slowly even with charged battery, but should be
> enough to start the car. When battery is topped off it cranks pretty good.
>
> The engine is a completely rebuilt - bottom end all new - bearings and rings.
> Head is rebuilt and tight - NF head on MC-1 block. Compression is good - need
> to reverify, but no reason to suspect this is off. I worry a little about
> cranking on a fresh engine like this, but suppose it happens all the time.
>
> I'd think even if MS were not spraying, I should at least get some action by
> using starting fluid or a little gas inserted just after the Throttle body -
> put/sprayed into the port the Air Temp sensor for MAC-14 goes and plugged.
> That should have at least gotten it to run for a second.
>
> Ideas?
>
> TIA
>
> Ben