NG with blown head gasket...how long can it run like that?

[SuffolkD at aol.com]

The FIRST engine I ever really goofed up WRT cooling was a 1.6L 4000S.  It 
over heated big time, and multiple times.  In 97 degree NJ stop and go traffic.

Once the temps got down to 60 and it was night time, I could drive the car 
home from NJ to MA...........no problem.

I did loosen the coolant res for the trip and replenished with straight 
water* during the trip because of the time of year........(60 degrees nighttime)

THAT HG was probably part of a warped head.

>>>> IF your engine runs, with a suspected HG leak (and its summer time)  run 
straight water (Assuming your not going for stop and go traffic and your heat 
& fan & relays work..........) and keep the coolant res cap loose or off.  
MAKE sure your thermostat is working.
You'll make the Big Easy........

UNLESS Your coolant tank water "percolates" when the engine is running, your 
suspected HG leak is probably hairline and in a normally aspirated engine for 
$250 for a "rally", it will make the trip.

This advice is ONLY for this situation:

YES, I know antifreeze will let the temps climb higher before boilover
YES I know the Pressurized (coolant) system will allow a higher than 212F 
boilover

BUT we're maximizing a $250 car w/ bad HG to run 1200 miles.

MY vote (and advice in THIS scenario ONLY)

Run water: this is to keep the plugs from fouling, *(run 20-30 anti / 70-80 
water for more resistance to boil over if you stop and go traffic.)

Keep the RPM down or the speed, BOTH mean less heat.  HOWEVER, Don't climb 
hills in 5th at low RPM either, THAT builds heat too.......

MAKE SURE ALL the OEM ductwork is present around your radiator. TOP, Sides 
and Bottom.

You'll need to FORCE ALL the air through the radiator to cool it.  Missing 
ONE panel (or gaps) will allow air to rush by the radiator by path of least 
resistance = less cooling = slower sustainable speeds.

Next run the heat with the fan ON, hot cabin means cooler engine........

Make sure the fan relays and motor works.  Upgrade to a higher blade count if 
you can   7 or more blades vs 4 or 5 blades = MORE CFM = more cooling

If you can squeeze 1/2 quart more of 20/50W oil in there do it.
This should dissipate more HEAT during your "rally"

If you can keep the hood from flying up (PINS) , keep it open just a crack so 
air  runs over the block while driving too.  Your looking to keep the sucker 
cool with your HG issue...........

Not just thoughts, but actual BTDT with several Audi 4000 & 4000Q's...........

-Scott by BOSTON

> From: TooManyAudis at aol.com
> Subject: Re: NG with blown head gasket...how long can it run like
>     that? 
> 
> In a message dated 1/17/2007 2:33:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> aamarks at cox.net writes:
> 
> One important piece of missing info is how much the seller wants for  it. I 
> don't know what it's worth to an Audifan, but blue book has the car's  value 
> as 
> less than it would cost to fix it. The guy should practically be  giving it 
> away. Then if you can fix it yourself you've got a  bargain.
> 
> We're assuming the car falls under the $250 limit for the BABE Rally.
> 
> Figure on $400 to $500 in parts and shop fees (with our hero doing all the  
> grunt work except the actual head refurbishing) and you've got the start of 
> a  
> decent car with a refurbished head, new timing belt, water pump, etc..
> 
> The book value on these cars must be ridiculously low by now (say $800 to  
> $1300).  But, if you want a dependable ride that will go anywhere and is  
> relatively easy to maintain, then the 80q is a pretty good option.
> 
> -- Tom
>