Mobil 1 oil weight
Steve Marinello
smarinello at entouch.net
Tue May 1 22:17:42 EDT 2007
Geez...I signed off twice on this thing. Comments in text below first
sign off...
Steve Marinello wrote:
> I'll lean toward ensuring remaining film strength, based solely on
> personal experience. Three I5 turbos that blew or burned oil on the
> light stuff, and one (stock S6 AAN) that fired up with a shrieking turbo
> and valve clatter after sitting five days and thereafter shrieked on
> boost until I got the light oil out and 15W50 in. The valve clatter in
> the urq (driven rarely) was so bad that I didn't put 100 miles on it
> before I changed the oil out. The RS2'ed S6 avant just burned oil and
> got the worst mileage it ever had...which the S6 sedan did, too. I have
> to believe, despite over extended statements of Dr. Haas, that more
> damage/wear was done to all three engines in the time they had that oil
> in them than in all their previous miles. My guess; the light stuff
> drained out of the hot, turbo'ed engines to completely and there wasn't
> sufficient film protection remaining on the engine and turbo bearings or
> at the head/valves at startup.
>
> Better base stocks are only better based on the tests chosen. Doesn't
> really say much about real world for a given car and engine, much less a
> particular owners driving characteristics and habits.
>
> I had a 1608 cc Fiat 124 Sport Coupe that I sold with 178k on it that
> had only seen 20W50 GTX...except for the summer when I worked near the
> Salton Sea/Mexican border and ran 60 weight Valvoline racing oil (hey,
> it was 112F at midnight!). When sold, compression in all cylinders was
> at the top0 of new spec. The engine had hot street cams, dual dual 40mm
> Webers and a free flow exhaust. It never burned a drop of oil and
> embarrassed various P-cars with its' power and customized suspension and
> did lots of canyon runs and got 30+ mpg cruising I5 at 75-85 mph during
> many super slab blasts from Stanford to L.A. All on that much maligned
> dino oil and 3000 mile oil changes.
>
> Find an oil that works and change it when it needs it. For NA cars,
> unless they are seriously hi performance, I don't see the need for
> synthetics, unless you live down here in the humid gulf where moisture
> finds its' way into everything and do lots of stop and go traffic and
> are lazy about changing oil. Synthetic, lighter weight, for newer tight
> tolerance turbo engines. Same rules apply about finding an appropriate one.
>
> FWIW, the modified Alfa 2 liter coupe I had at the same time didn't run
> nearly as well on GTX. Its' engine preferred the viscosity
> characteristics of Valvoline 20W50 racing, so that's what it got. Seems
> someone several years ago posted that their S4 (C4) seemed to prefer
> Amsoil 15W40 Diesel oil. Had an Amsoil tech tell me he wasn't surprised
> and that he thought it was one of the best oils they made. It worked,
> and I hope he's still using it. I may have to give it a try, since
> ordering it may be just as easy to get an oil I want right now.
>
> If 0W30 works for you, Grant, great..really! If you do end up with
> engine problems however, do let us know. Ameer, whatever you decide to
> run is fine with me. Again, let us know how it works out. I have three
> cars and two of them don't see lots of duty anymore, so I will make sure
> they have higher vis synthetic in them as they sit here in Houston
> humidity and will TRY to make sure I fire them up and take them out at
> least once a month.
>
> Steve
>
> Grant Lenahan wrote:
>
>> I saw this earlier, but didn't have time to respond intelligently - you
>> raise important issues, although you dont sway my conviction. let me
>> explain why.
>>
>> Most people agree with you.
>>
>> Historically, oil and motor manufacturers agreed with you.
>>
>> But 3 things have changed:
>>
>> 1.) think oils can be made from much better base stocks. Most
>> synthetics begin with the higher weight base (eg: 40), and flow well
>> naturally. Most dino oils started with the lower weight (e.g.: 0) and
>> then added VI improvers to meet higher temp demands. These VI
>> improvers dont work all that well (low VIs) and wear out, leaving you
>> with thin oil. Synthetics dont.
>>
>>
> Which means that they last longer and don't have to be replaced as
> often. But, 'improvers" with dino oil can still meet most hi temp
> demands at a much lower cost point than synthetics.
>
>> 2.) Research has shown that to maintain oil flow, and thus good
>> lubrication, almost all oils are too thick until operating temperature,
>> at least, is reached. read Dr. Haas' articles (all 10 of them) before
>> countering this.
>>
>>
> Counter what? That's why multi-vis oils were developed. Nothing new or
> shocking at that. Technology advances and we get better at addressing
> that point as time moves on.
>
>> 3.) Further research has proven the old farmers' tale true. A paper
>> from the last SAE conference in fact. >90% of all engine wear occurs
>> during startup and cold running. Not just "dry cranking", but
>> insufficient flow to meet the demands of rpms above idle. This can
>> occur very, very low.
>>
>>
> Again, the reason for multi vis oils. Your premise is that you will
> always have better flow/fluid transport with lower vis oils. That isn't
> true. There has to be a balance, which is addressed for a particular
> engine and oil passage dimensions by a particular viscosity. We are not
> pumping in a completely filled and closed system. The oil pump as to
> effectively pick up and move that fluid. It's a whole lot easier to
> pick up a fluid with some minimal/substantial viscosity than to pick up
> and move something with a viscosity like water. Unless the oil in use
> has the properties necessary to maintain a minimal film strength for the
> time period the engine is expected to be shut down, after operating
> under the conditions and temperatures under which it is shut down, it
> will cause more damage to the engine than a short transient oil
> starvation before pressure comes up. Again, it's related to the design
> of passages and tolerances in a given engine. Tests with laboratory
> standards, or on one particular type of engine don't necessarily relate
> to another given engine and (although I hate absolutes and think that
> this whole discussion is caught in trying to apply results globally in
> absolute terms) I would venture to say, ABSOLUTELY do not apply to all
> engines. That doesn't mean the findings aren't valid; it just means
> that there are other factors modifying their validity for a particularly
> case.
>
>> The last two say the industry was always wrong, if well intentioned.
>> Long held beliefs change slowly.
>>
>>
>>
> It doesn't say the industry was wrong! It just said they addressed the
> problems by a different means with the technology of the times. We knew
> that 95% or engine wear occurred at start-up when I was a kid...and I'm 52!
>
>> You are very right that older motors have larger tolerances. You are
>> also right that they require a thicker film to fill this void, maintain
>> pressure and protect. But this can happen two ways: 1) higher flow, 2)
>> thicker oil. With insufficient pressure and pump volume, thicker oil
>> wont solve the problem. Dr. Haas shows this is often true below 100
>> degC.
>>
>>
> Look at what you said, "with insufficient pressure and pump
> volume"...There are the proviso's...do you think Porsche, Audi, Ferrari,
> MB ensured that there oil pumps were designed to provide the pressure
> and flow requirements for the oils specified?
>
>> I dont know where the line is drawn. The only way to end this
>> conclusively is to monitor both temperature, and flow, and pressure
>> simultaneously on various motors. That would be a very worthwhile
>> research project. It might even cut list volume by 80% :-)
>>
>>
> Agreed, but you have to include the aforementioned shut down temperature
> and static time and measure film strength and thickness, too.
>
>> Would I go a bit thicker in an older I5? yep. But I used 5W30 (M1) in
>> my I5s with great results. Dr. Hass' research and calculations show
>> that these oi;ld (5w30, ow40) are too thick for modern motors ( at
>> least above idal),. So, using your own logic, they may in fact be
>> perfect for older ones. Without data its just speculation.
>>
>>
> Got my data...3 out of 3! Not a coincidence, in my experience.
>
>> Bottom line is more damage is done by thick oil in cold engines than
>> thin oil in hot ones.
>>
>>
> Again, depends on what's left on the engine surfaces and how well it
> protects relative to initial oil 'starvation'. Just 'cause you got thin
> oil doesn't mean it will pump efficiently through the engine at startup.
>
> I just remembered a screw-up of mine with the Fiat after the summer down
> near the border. I hadn't changed the oil back to 20W50 after heading
> back up to school in the fall. And time just kept slipping, because I
> rode my bike and the car basically sat there with only occasional
> use...for three months. Just didn't get around to changing it because,
> heck, it only had 1500 miles on it. Came Thanksgiving and a spur of the
> minute ski trip to Mammoth and an unexpected blizzard. After four days,
> dug the car out, remembering the race oil as we dug. I was sure it
> wouldn't turn over. But it did...and fired each cylinder so that you
> could hear it and see the engine turn with each pulse. The damn thing
> just kept going and eventually started to run faster and faster and
> warmed up and we were off, everyone shaking their heads in disbelief at
> what had happened...and at how the car nut could be so stupid. That
> racing oil had helacious film strength, but still a low enough viscosity
> to allow the engine to turn at about 20F. Granted, that's not at -5F,
> but it was enough so that, starved as the engine was for circulating
> oil, it was able to function.
>
>
> Boy, that was a ramble. That's what happens after listening to a Jr.
> High School band concert....
>
> Steve
>
> Ol' Fart ex-Engineering Prof and some kinds of fluid flow specialist
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