5 seconds of cranking to start

[cobram at juno.com]

JC Whitney is...JC Whitney.  Just look at the pictures of what you get,
for the same money let the buyer choose.  

Nobody said it was taking 5 seconds for 2.5 revolutions.  Up to 2.5
revolutions is normal for a turbo, that's all that was said.

Before new injectors/seals the 200TQA was taking between 5-8 rev to
start, after, around 2.  

When the return valve was loose, it took a whole lot more than 5 seconds
to start, and wouldn't start at all depending on whether the engine was
up to operating temperature or not.  That one was a btch to figure out,
since the valve was failing intermittently, and would test fine.  
Check valve is something everyone should keep as a spare when you change
fuel pumps (usually get a new one with fuel pump), I think it was around
$35 as a separate item, and if you have one on hand, it's probably faster
to just change for a known good one than to test it.

I tried the archives, but gave up.  Phil Paine had a really good write up
that applied to all the CIS turbos, wish I had saved it.

BTW-anyone ever hear from him again?  Sure he's got his license back by
now...maybe he's defected to slower brand?

BCNU,
http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/
I live on a one-way street that's also a dead end. I'm not sure how I got
here, or how I'm going to get out.

"frank j. bauer" <frankbauer at thevine.net> writes:

> the jc whitney version has all the required adapters.
> i can't imagine how it could be "easier to use".
> 
> if the starter is taking 5 seconds for 2.5 revolutions of the 
> engine,  it's not caused by a fuel problem.
> 
> cobram at juno.com wrote:
> > For the same money you can get one from BMP which is easier to use 
> and
> > has all the adapters:
> > 
> > 
>
http://www.bmpdesign.com/product-exec/product_id/447/search_year/1983/se
> > 
> > Back to the original problem...on the turbos the injectors/seals 
> are
> > almost always the culprit. Chances are good the injectors are 
> long
> > overdue for replacement.  It's normal for the turbo to take up to 
> 2.5
> > revolutions to start, Phil the UR guru said it takes those first 
> couple
> > turns for the ECU to figure out what's going on before it'll let 
> the
> > engine run. 
> > 
> > BCNU,
> > http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/
> > I live on a one-way street that's also a dead end. I'm not sure 
> how I got
> > here, or how I'm going to get out.
> >  
> > 
> > "frank j. bauer" <frankbauer at thevine.net> writes:
> >> a quite serviceable cis pressure test kit is available at jc 
> whitney 
> >> for 
> >> $60 plus the usual:
> >>
> > 
>
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:20081
> > 
>
26/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2008126/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-1
> > 0101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=cis+fuel+pressure+gauge
> >  
> >> cody at 5000tq.com wrote:
> >>> Grant that would not work on a 5ktq. They only run the fuel pump 
> 
> >> when  
> >>> the engine is turning, whether by the starter or by running of 
> >> course.
> >>> Jeff, this is not 'normal' for your car, but not uncommon at all 
> 
> >> among  
> >>> CIS fuled cars. Grant's suggestion of the leaking check valve is 
> a 
> >>  
> >>> likely culprit, as are the fuel pressure accumulator, o-ring on 
> 
> >> the  
> >>> pressure by-pass piston in the fuel distributor, warm-up  
> >>> regulator/differential pressure regulator, and leaking 
> injectors.
> >>>
> >>> Diagnosing this issue without a CIS pressure gauge set can be 
> >> tricky.  
> >>> Start by watching carefully for a puff of white smoke when 
> >> starting.  
> >>> This would hint at leaky injectors. Next you could install a 
> fuse 
> >> in  
> >>> the top of the fuel pump relay, which would put the car in 
> >> diagnostic  
> >>> mode and make the fuel pump run any time the ignition is on. Now 
>  
> >>> Grant's test is valid - when it's cold like it normally would be 
> 
> >> you  
> >>> turn the key on and just let the pump run for a few seconds, 
> then 
> >> try  
> >>> to start. If it starts right away, or at least faster then 
> usual, 
> >> then  
> >>> we have determined that you have a problem with fuel pressure 
> >> leakage.  
> >>>  From there it is hard to diagnose without a gauge set, so you 
> may 
> >>  
> >>> want to either purchase one or visit a friendy shop that is 
> >> properly  
> >>> equipped. You *could* try removing the fuel injectors (engine 
> not  
> >>> running) and look for leakage, but from there it's all guesses 
> >> without  
> >>> a gauge set.
> >>  
> >>> -Cody Forbes
> >>> http://www.5000tq.com
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Quoting Grant Lenahan <glenahan at vfemail.net>:
> >>>
> >>>> Uncommon.  But the real question is "did something change?"
> >>>>
> >>>> I have foudn that long cranking can be a sign of a weak fuel 
> pump 
> >> or
> >>>> leaking check valve. On older cars, try this:
> >>>>
> >>>> 1. turn key to run, listen for fuel pump.
> >>>> 2. after 3-5 sec, start car
> >>>>
> >>>> Did it catch faster?
> >>>>
> >>>> Grant
> >>>> On Oct 7, 2007, at 10:00 PM, JeffreyZentner at aol.com wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Hi All
> >>>>> I have a question I have a 88 5KTQ and when I start it when it 
> 
> >> is cold
> >>>>> it
> >>>>> takes about 5 seconds of cranking to start it. It always 
> starts 
> >> but it
> >>>>> seams like
> >>>>> that is a lot of creaking is this normal or do I have a 
> >> problem?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Jeff Zentner
> >>>>> Alta CA
> >>>>>
> >>>>> 88 5KTQ