What's the Weight of a 4.2L V8?
Andy Szyszkowski
andys at aemf.org
Mon Sep 24 12:54:23 PDT 2007
Does anyone know the weight of the A8 4.2L V8? Fully dressed is
preferred. Engine + trans ok too.
Much appreciated; Thanks,
Andy
-----Original Message-----
From: quattro-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:quattro-bounces at audifans.com]
On Behalf Of quattro-request at audifans.com
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 12:00 PM
To: quattro at audifans.com
Subject: quattro Digest, Vol 47, Issue 42
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Today's Topics:
1. NF engine running too lean (Ben Swann)
2. RE: Alternator Question (Steve Sears)
3. Re: MC vs KH take 2 (Ameer Antar)
4. Re: Alternator Question (Mark R)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:59:34 -0400
From: "Ben Swann" <benswann at comcast.net>
Subject: NF engine running too lean
To: <200q20v at bluezone.no>
Cc: quattro at audifans.com
Message-ID: <0b0901c7feb3$23d3e980$6501a8c0 at swansong>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Clean, part disassemble if need be and reinstall. Use new O-ring kit
available from
dealer. Replace O2 sensor if still having problem
CIS-E3 DPR current occillates around 0, so current may not be
detectable if near Stoich
at idle. Best to have idle mixture set slightly lean so DPR has to
compensate and then
enrich ever so slightly for best idle ? not over ? turn from lean side
of good idle.
Ben
[Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 00:03:21 +0200
From: "Eyvind E. Spangen" <200q20v at bluezone.no>
Subject: NF engine running too lean
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Message-ID: <001501c7fe2d$8dff9830$a9fec890$@no>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250"
Thanks a lot! Now I went to the junkyard and pulled a DPR from a car
there.
I was thinking about pulling the whole metering head/air flow plate
thing, but it was
just too messed up with connectors left open etc, so I left it alone,
only got the DPR,
which was not messed with like the one I had on my car.
I installed this, and now the car feels a lot better and has got almost
perfect CO
content. But when driving, it's too lean. The car lacks a lot of power
and feels like
it's slightly missing. If I try going up a hill in 5th at about 60 mph,
it almost won't
keep the speed.. I tried richening the mixture almost 1/4 turn, but that
was far too
much. Tried 1/8 turn and did not feel very much difference at all. I
have the Bentley
manual and will try all the measurements there, but it is kinda weird
that the car is
running so lean, but richening the mixture makes no difference until it
gets to 1/4 turn
and far too rich.. With the old DPR, the car was running far too rich,
CO content over
10%, but it had the correct power. Now it's slower than a school bus..
:P
I tried measuring the DPR current using some cables I made. I'm sure
they are working
and connected the right way, I set my multimeter to 200 mA, but I got
nothing except
0.00 anyway. Will the current stay at 0.00 all the time if the car stays
in open loop?
--
E. Spangen]
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 09:48:09 -0400
From: "Steve Sears" <steve.sears at soil-mat.on.ca>
Subject: RE: Alternator Question
To: <quattro at audifans.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c7feb1$8af2c160$8602a8c0 at stevedesk>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Vittorio,
If the alternator is one of those 110 amp units, then the two bolt pivot
is
correct. If it is the 90 amp unit, then it should have a long bolt and
nut
at the pivot. If you were to hook a long jumper cable directly between
the
snubber mount to the battery ground, would you get a different reading?
(The engine ground to chassis across one of the engine mounts may be
bad).
You might also check the condition of the battery cable splice.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
1980 Audi 5000
1987 Audi 5000 Turbo Quattro
----- Original Message -----
> Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2007 18:23:42 -0400
> From: "Vittorio Bares" <Vittorio.Bares at nuance.com>
> Subject: RE: Alternator Question
> To: <quattro at audifans.com>
> Message-ID:
> <2AB5541EB33172459EE430FFB66B1EE909E311B7 at BN-EXCH01.nuance.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Ok - thanks again for the indications.
>
> Did everything suggested!
>
> And as a last resort (doh!) - took down the alternator and cleaned &
> applied dielectric to all the contact points. (thanks P Cole).
>
> Started her up and voila - 13.8v - 13.9v, took it for a ride and it
went
> back to where it was previously :(.
>
> My suspicion now is the mounting hardware used at the pivot point (on
> the snub nose bracket). It appears the last folks that had their hands
> in there put 2 threaded bolts, one on the front and one on the back.
The
> one closest to the firewall does not tighten all the way. Perhaps its
> stripped (it came off very easily as well).
>
> My question to the list is:
>
> "Should there be a through bolt that pinches the alternator to the
snub
> nose bracket, rather than the 2 bolt setup that's in there now?"
>
> TIA - getting closer...
>
>
> Vittorio
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:03:29 -0400
From: "Ameer Antar" <antar at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: MC vs KH take 2
To: quattro at audifans.com
Message-ID:
<102a897b0709241003n2c20257cqc451223163ce5478 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Ya, crank and rods are the same dimensions, but you'll have to bore out
.060
just to get to stock MC bore. You'll have to use a KH head as well; the
coolant passages are different. I know the oil filter housing is
different
(2 filters instead of one, but most likely you can swap in an MC
housing).
The oil pump's slightly different, but other than that not much else.
I've
run a KH pretty hard with forged pistons. Engine can take it, but the
fuel
system is another story.
On 9/24/07, quattro-request at audifans.com <quattro-request at audifans.com>
wrote:
>
> Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 07:59:09 -0500
> From: cody at 5000tq.com
> Subject: MC vs KH take 2
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <20070924075909.q7sz8ctu88og80w4 at www.jcforbes.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; DelSp="Yes";
> format="flowed"
>
> Why didn't I think of this sooner??
>
> I'm in need of a block for my "fast" 5ktq after melting a chunk of
> cylinder wall, but my spare MC blocks are both in need of boring (one
> is rusted, one is worn out). I've got two KH engines sitting arround
> collecting dust and rust, but I don't want to use the cast pistons.
>
> Is there any reason that anybody knows of that I couldn't use MC
> pistons in a KH block and call it an MC? Crank and rods the same? I've
> got plenty of spare MC internals to do whatever needed.
>
>
> -Cody Forbes
> http://www5000tq.com
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 13:36:06 -0400
From: "Mark R" <speedracer.mark at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator Question
To: "Steve Sears" <steve.sears at soil-mat.on.ca>
Cc: quattro at audifans.com
Message-ID:
<56e3dd120709241036g661477b9sb2416d32656201d1 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Steve's got it right... often overlooked is the primary wiring. Audi
didn't
use the greatest wiring when new, and now you'll often find corrosion
under
the sheath due to moisture wicking. Remember, the alternator has to
have
the ability to get the current (amperage) out as well.
Another quick and dirty test is to check voltage at the battery versus
the
alternator post (if available when engine is running). Set up the
wiring
before starting the engine. If you see a voltage change (drop along the
wiring), you'll need some attention there.
Cheers!
Mark Rosenkrantz
On 9/24/07, Steve Sears <steve.sears at soil-mat.on.ca> wrote:
>
> Vittorio,
> If the alternator is one of those 110 amp units, then the two bolt
pivot
> is
> correct. If it is the 90 amp unit, then it should have a long bolt
and
> nut
> at the pivot. If you were to hook a long jumper cable directly
between
> the
> snubber mount to the battery ground, would you get a different
reading?
> (The engine ground to chassis across one of the engine mounts may be
bad).
> You might also check the condition of the battery cable splice.
> Cheers!
> Steve Sears
> 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
> 1980 Audi 5000
> 1987 Audi 5000 Turbo Quattro
>
------------------------------
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