Timing belt replacement and water pump questions

Cody Forbes cody at 5000tq.com
Tue Apr 29 16:35:29 PDT 2008


Arthur Marks wrote:
> I have a (B6) A4 1.8 turbo  with 59,000 miles. It's about time for the
> timing belt and I noticed some mineral buildup on one of the front
> oil pan bolts along with a low coolant level in the reservoir so I
> think I may already have a failing water pump.

Very likely. For the annount of work it is I generally like to replace them 
anyways while you are there. Even if it shows no signs of being bad I think 
of it like this: Ok it lasted this long fine, but do I think it'll make it 
to the next T-bekt change? Not likely.

>
> My 1st question is do I have to remove the bumper, or just slide it
> forward... (I have Bentley)? And do I need any special tools or are
> there work arounds? I've done some substantial repairs (removed the
> oil pan for sludge repair), but I'm not looking forward to removing
> the bumper in my driveway if I don't have to. If so, are there any
> replacement parts required for the bumper removal?

Bumper removal is easy peasy. No specialy tools for the bumper, and you 
don't really need the special tools (basically long bolts) for the lock 
carrier. You really do need the bumper off, but I promise it only LOOKS like 
a pain. I always forget if it's the B6 or B5 that has a few extra nuts 
holding the bumper to the fenders, but they are easy to get once the 
headlights are out. Just follow your Bentley manual and you'll be good to 
go.

If you are meaning special tools for the T-belt job, well the crank lock 
tool is very nice to have, but you can get arround it if you are careful to 
make sure the engine doesn't turn at any point when the belt is loose or 
off. Also if you have any oil leaks that you find while you are there (cam 
seal(s)) you need the tool to pull the cam sprocket off. Other then that you 
should be ok with basic hand tools. The crankshaft center bolt (to turn the 
engine with) is a 12 point either 22 or 24mm you may not have.

>
> Also it seems to me a water pump should be able to last longer than
> 60k. Has the part been upgraded? ETKA seems to indicate 06A-121-012
> replaces 06A-121-011-T. Online vendors indicate you want a metal
> impeller but still refer to the -011#. Perhaps the -012 part# just
> ensures it's metal?

Always get one with a metal impeller. The Audi # has changed a few times, 
but they still fail. The plastic impeller pumps have a larger issure then 
leakage usually - the plastic gets brittle and breaks, then you've got 
overheating and bits of plastic floating arround your cooling system. IIRC, 
and please remember I don't order the parts I just install them, Audi only 
sells plastic ones, all metal ones are from outside soucres. I'm guessing 
they just use the Audi part# to make life easy.


> ETKA lists G 012 A8F M1 as the coolant. I think that is G12+? Is it
> ok to use Pentosin G12 that comes in this T-belt kit?
> http://www.mjmautohaus.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=6169_6170_6187_6190_6729_9171&info=OEM_VAG_06B109119F.AMBE.KIT3_Timing_Belt_Kit_"PLUS"_Early_Models&products_id=2166
> From what I've read the two are compatible.

I always stick with the VAG pink stuff.

-Cody Forbes (VAG tech at my day job)
http://www.5000tq.com
'87 5ktq - Fast.
'87 5ktq QLCC'd plus some
'86 5ktqCD
'86 5k
'86 5k 



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