Central door locking system not working

[Geraint Lloyd]

Al

HTH and it's a pain between the cheeks

I used http://20v.org/doorroof.htm as a guide as well as Chris Miller

Make sure that the new arm clears EVERYTHING NICELY before putting the inner
door / motor assembly back in.

I did mine on the 200 10v and it was catching on something inside the door.
I can't remember what though, as it was last year and I have "defragged my
RAM" a couple of times since then.

I also had the central locking microswitch on the driver's door fail about a
month after I fitted the new lock arm and have yet to fix that

20v.org suggests fitting keyless entry to avoid this kind of situation and I
followed their advice with a cheapo alarm wired in parallel with the factory
one that arms the alarm and the central locking and "immobilises" a
different circuit than the factory alarm. It does have switchblade keys
though! 

A keyless entry installation guide is also on 20v.org

Good luck

Geraint



-----Original Message-----
From: quattro-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:quattro-bounces at audifans.com] On
Behalf Of Kneale Brownson
Sent: 24 July 2008 07:45
To: Al Streicher; Quattro
Subject: Re: Central door locking system not working

There's a little tab on the inner end of the lock assembly that's supposed
to turn with the key and operate the unlocking.  It breaks off.  I think
it's similar to the description of the reapir on a 200q20v from Chris
Miller's website.  Pix isn't too helpful because it's of a connected one
rather than broken:  http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/body.html#Door Lock
Repair

Al Streicher <streichea001 at hawaii.rr.com> wrote:  The car a 1990 80 4 cyl
2wd. I went to the car to get something from within.
The key felt heavy, not wanting to turn right or left, when it did the door
unlocked the other three didn't. So I got the Bentley out to check the
situation over. The key worked in the pass door unlocked and opened. It
would not do the driver door.

I proceeded to check the fuse (19) and it was ok. I went to the trunk/boot
for the Bi-pressure pump. The hose connections looked good, nothing broken
or cracked. So I checked the connector, pulled it off, looked ok, I blew it
out and re-assembled it twice. Now it works the door. I put some silicone
dielectric grease on the male and female connection. Now that works great.

NEW Problem
Back to the front driver door. I put my key in and felt a small amount of
resistance in unlocking the door. It reluctantly worked but got rougher the
next turn, then click the key just spins in the lock, not locking or
unlocking. Thankfully I can get the pass door open and it in turn opens the
others in the system.

I think I am going to install a release switch in the trunk or gas flap
opening to activate it if both sides go down.

Thanks to Huw's site for the info on front door panel removal, good plan of
attack, then comes the window and motor assy, I guess that needs to go I can
get to the lock assy.

Anyone want to chime in with their BTDT. Mainly I would like to know which
part normal breaks, allowing the key to turn but not actuates anything. I
hate to tear this down not knowing what to expect then find the broken part,
close it up until I can get anew part.

Huw said now is the time to re-lube all that needs it. What do I use, white
lithium, Vaseline, Tri-flo. It's got to last at least another 10 years.

Any help is greatly appreciated, old broken down body will slow me down, but
the more info I have in my brain, the better it will go.

Thanks,

Al

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