200 10V stumbles, poor mileage
Konstantine Bogach
kbogach at comcast.net
Tue Dec 22 15:09:50 PST 2009
Thank you. I will figure out looking at wiring diagram, if I stare long
enough :)
On 12/22/2009 08:59 PM, David Michael wrote:
>
> Hi Konstantine - See my replies below:
> Dave
> On Mon, Dec 21, 2009 at 4:34 PM, Konstantine Bogach
> <kbogach at comcast.net <mailto:kbogach at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
> Dave, thank you very much for such detailed response.
> Can you explain in more details on how to do the measurement in
> your item 2? Which points to hook O-scope to?
>
> ==>I made a harness that plugged in between the distributor and coil,
> and that harness had bare leads on it that I used to connect the
> o-scope. You could also use "back probes" to connect to the connector
> pins at either the dizzy or coil. I can't remember which lead is the
> Hall output - you'll have to check the Bentley.
>
> Duty cycle sweep is same as before, maybe a little wider (35-65).
> Air meter plate is always a suspect because you can't see it. Can
> I reach it through air filter box?
>
> ==>You cannot get to the roller bearing easily, but maybe at an angle-
> but it makes it easy to check to see if the plate is moving smoothly.
> You want to do it both with no fuel pressure and with the fuel pump
> energized (only do the latter briefly, otherwise you will fill the
> engine with gas ;-) )
>
> Can coil be bad even resistance test is good?
>
> ==>They can go bad when hot?
>
> Need to check air cleaner too. I have no garage and have to wait
> next weekend - I need at least daylight if not warm weather.
>
> Thank you.
> Konstanine.
>
>
> On 12/19/2009 10:50 PM, David Michael wrote:
>
> Konstantine,
> On and off I have had several bouts of fixing my poorly
> running 200 10V. Some of the issues it sounds like you are
> familiar with, but here are some things I learned:
> 1. Air leaks. Double, then triple check. Use Scott M's site as
> a guide for where to look. Injector seals, valve cover
> gasket, rubber "igloo" and intake hose clamps all good places
> to look. All are easy except for the injector seals..
> 2. I fought a poor drive ability problem for very long time
> before I found that the Hall Sensor in the distributor was
> sending false signals. I finally found that when I hooked an
> O-scope up between the distributor and coil, and found there
> were random "ghost signals" inter-spaced with the sine wave.
> New dizzy fixed a world of problems.
> 3. When you set your idle mixture duty cycle, make sure you
> also set the idle valve control current with the bypass air
> screw. It's best if you have two meters - one for the mixture
> duty cycle and one for the bypass valve current. If you cannot
> set the idle air valve it to 430MA, look for the reason why......
> How steady is the duty cycle at idle? It should not swing by
> more than about 30%
> 4. I had a very strange problem where my control pressure
> regulator was not constant - it would randomly change the
> control pressure by ~5psi. But that affected the part throttle
> accelerating, not idle. New WUR fixed that.
> 5. Make sure your air meter flapper plate moves without
> binding - there is a roller bearing under the fuel distributor
> plunger, and mine was occasionally sticking. I fixed it by
> spraying some lubricant through the idle mixture setting
> hole. You have to bend the tip of the lubricant can little red
> hose at 90 degrees to do this. It would be better to remove
> the fuel distributor from the AFM but that is a PIA.
> 6. You need to find out if your car is hard to start because
> there is too much fuel or too little. I did have a drippy
> injector once, and it would cause hard starting after 15
> minutes - but you could also smell gas. It also had no affect
> on idle.
> 7. Other things I have done that may or may not have helped:
> New coil, new plugs, new TDC sensor, new air cleaner
> Good luck
> Dave
> 90 200 qa 240k
>
>
>
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