Type 44 Speaker

Thu Nov 12 17:14:24 PST 2009

The screens can be popped? I tried, but could not remove, afraid of doing
any damage. To the outsides of those front speakers there is a fake vent
like cover about 2cm x 10cm which can be hinged out.
I removed the right fake vent cover. Seems like there is a duct below.

Max

-----Original Message-----
From: cody at 5000tq.com [mailto:cody at 5000tq.com] 
Sent: Thursday, November 12, 2009 19:57
To: Max Hoepli
Cc: 'LL - NY'; 'Quattro List'; 'MarkRosenkrantz'
Subject: Re: Type 44 Speaker

It's been a while since I've pulled one of those, but isn't it removed  
by poping the screen off the top then removing the 4 8mm head nuts?

Speakers are easily tested with a 9v battery. Attach two wires to the  
speaker then touch them to the terminals on the battery very very  
breifly. The speaker will emit a poping sound as you touch and as you  
remove the wires. This trick is also great when installing a new radio  
to identify which wires in the car lead to which speaker(s). You can  
also test the speaker with a multimeter set to measure resistance  
(ohms) or continuity. Open circuit means a bad coil, 2 or 4ohms  
(depending on the type of speaker) represents a good coil (though  
there could be other issues such as a detacted cone).

Hey Huw if you are reading, just for referance, household speakers are  
generally 8ohm aren't they? <insert plug for Human Speakers>

-Cody

Quoting Max Hoepli <mhoepli at vif.com>:

> The front right speaker doesn't work. I once took roof of glove box
> partially away to reach wires. Jiggled which solved problem. While
driving,
> the speaker stopped working. Tried jiggling wires again with radio on, no
> success in getting the front right speaker to function.
>
> Difficult to get at speaker! All other 3 speakers work.
> Suggestions to get right front speaker to work?
>
> Max
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Cody Forbes [mailto:cody at 5000tq.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 18:43
> To: Max Hoepli; 'LL - NY'
> Cc: 'Quattro List'; 'MarkRosenkrantz'
> Subject: Re: type 44 speaker impedance?
>
> Start by jiggling the switch back and forth a few times while the radio is
> on and playing music. If you get sound on and off flickering then you are
> definitely going up the right alley. Then go on to un-plugging it and
using
> jumper wires (or a paperclip in a pinch) to by-pass it and see if this
gets
> you rear sound. Oh, to get to the plug you need to pop the whole thing out
> of the deck. Just pull up on the front edge and it'll pop right out.
>
>> From there it's up to you to either decide to try to clean the contacts
or
> just by-pass the switch however you see fit.
>
> -Cody Forbes
>
>
>> Regarding the headphone jacks. The headphone switch is a very very very
>> common failure point.
>>
>> How would I correct this problem? I just may have a problem there.
>> My 1986 type 44 has a turbo charger and has 4 speakers as seen in the
>> Haynes
>> Manual.
>>
>>
>> Max
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: cody at 5000tq.com [mailto:cody at 5000tq.com]
>> Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 13:38
>> To: LL - NY
>> Cc: Max Hoepli; Quattro List; MarkRosenkrantz
>> Subject: Re: type 44 speaker impedance?
>>
>> The rear speaker amp is optional on t44's from and including '86.
>> There were two radio options, a 4 speaker version and the 10 speaker
>> (Bose?) version. If your car has speakers in the doors then it has (or
>> at least had from the factory) the amp. From what I can tell with my
>> ownership experiance (I think I'm up to having owned 10 '86-'87
>> 5000's, currently 3 including a Canadian model) the TQ's seem to all
>> have the 10 speaker system and the non-turbo's tend to have the 4
>> speaker system. With a 4 speaker system an aftermarker radio will work
>> all of the speakers without issue. With the 10 speaker system the best
>> way to get working rear speakers is to change them to aftermarket
>> speakers and bypass the amp wiring.
>>
>> All versions have the headphone adaptor on the rear deck which turns
>> off the speakers and diverts the signal to the headphone jacks. The
>> headphone switch is a very very very common failure point. The
>> contacts get dirty and fail to pass the audio signal _anywhere_.
>>
>> -Cody
>>
>> Quoting LL - NY <larrycleung at gmail.com>:
>>
>>> What year is your type 44? On the early ones with the power masts, I'm
>>> really wondering if there even IS an amp to begin with.  Can't help you
>> with
>>> documentation, as the only ones I have are for the '89 and later 200's.
>>>
>>> LL - NY
>>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2009 at 6:52 PM, Max Hoepli <mhoepli at vif.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I followed the antenna wire which separates from retractable antenna
>> about
>>>> 2
>>>> cm below top of rear left fender, proceeds forward and goes just behind
>>>> seat
>>>> metal panel in trunk, doesn't seem to go upwards to C-pillar.
>>>>
>>>> I'll check other literature.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Max
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: Brett Dikeman [mailto:brett.dikeman at gmail.com]
>>>> Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 19:29
>>>> To: Max Hoepli
>>>> Cc: Mark Rosenkrantz; Quattro List
>>>> Subject: Re: type 44 speaker impedance?
>>>>
>>>> On Sat, Nov 7, 2009 at 7:12 PM, Max Hoepli <mhoepli at vif.com> wrote:
>>>> >  C-pillar just inside the trunk I assume
>>>>
>>>> No- pull the pillar cover.
>>>>
>>>> Should be a long box, directly connected to (among other things) the
>>>> rear defroster grid.
>>>>
>>>> All this is in the Bentley, btw...
>>>>
>>>> The box in the trunk under the rear deck is the amplifier for the rear
>>>> speakers.
>>>>
>>>> Brett
>>>>
>>>>
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>>>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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