water pump installation

[LL - NY]

As a member of another car list, RTV is what killed one 24 Hrs of Lemons
entrant. The silicone (P.O. must've done it, the entrant had no idea, it was
used to seal the oil pan to the block) somehow got into the sump and clogged
the oil pump. End of race, 4 hrs in. I think after seeing that, that John is
totally on target here.

LL - NY

On Sat, Oct 17, 2009 at 1:20 PM, john at westcoastgarage.net <
john at westcoastgarage.net> wrote:

> Kneale Brownson wrote:
> > <div class="moz-text-flowed" style="font-family: -moz-fixed">I've
> > always thought (and used the approach) that the big O-Ring is the only
> > seal required on an I-5 waterpump.  I'm doing the timing belt on my
> > 200q20v avant, and when I took off the old pump, there was a bunch of
> > black gunk all over the surface surrounding the hole.  After repeated
> > scrubbings with brake cleaner and a brass brush, I've got all the
> > black gunk off, and I find there are several grooves where the old
> > pump sort of corroded to the block, I think.  This is only the second
> > belt replacement, according to the records I got with the car, now at
> > about 130K miles.  I used some fine sandpaper and a sanding block to
> > clean the surface after getting the black crap off.   I can see the
> > grooves still, but they're fairly smooth.  I don't think I could get
> > anything like JB Weld to stick in them enough that the surface would
> > be smoother after additional sanding.
> >
> > Anyway, the directions for "mounting" the new pump say to remove all
> > traces of old sealant and apply "sealing compound--Curil--between the
> > sealing surface and the new pump".  They also supply the O-Ring, of
> > course.
> > Because of the non-totally-smooth condition of this block, I'm tempted
> > to use a sealant.  Never seen Curil before.  Any suggested
> > alternatives I'm likely to find in a rural FLAPS?
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> >
> > </div>
> >
> Rubber to metal.  NEVER use a sealant.  In my 36 years as a German car
> tech, this rule has served me well.  Per a BMW service bulletin for
> cylinder head corrosion repairs, I began using JB Weld to correct
> surface imperfections in BMWs, Vanagons, VR6 engines, and now T44s.  It
> works just fine, and I've had no comebacks for this type of carefully
> done repairs in the last 10 years.  The trick is to use the 24 hour
> curing type (regular), get everything REALLY clean, and properly dress
> the finish once it's cured.  I use a broad flat file and carefully
> restore the surface.  Sometimes it takes more than one application and
> subsequent filing/block sanding.  RTV, even improper usage of one of the
> various Curil sealants, is the tool of amateurs and professional
> hackers, IMO, and rarely is without unwanted consequences.  John
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