No start after TB????We Got Fire!!!!
urq
urq at pacbell.net
Thu Oct 22 23:01:12 PDT 2009
First and foremost ... I am sorry to hear about your unfortunate injury
Kneale! I've been there in my own way, so I know what it is like to be out
of commission for a while. I do hope that you are able to recover quickly
with no serious long term effects! I wonder if you're having the same
experience I did ... when people found out I had broken my leg, many jumped
to the conclusion that I hurt myself while riding the motorcycle ...
I have been racking my brain trying to understand this 180 degree phase
relationship between the crank and cam. Such is the nature of a four-stroke
motor, the crank performs a full rotation twice for each rotation of the cam
... it sure seems to me that if you spin the crank 360 degrees you'd make up
that 180 degree cam "offset." I thought about it and had almost convinced
myself that there was some sort of "distributor" alignment issue (in quotes
because I know your 20v has no dizzy). I don't know if your car has a cam
position sensor on the pulley or in the location the distributor is usually
found ... but I realized that this should match the cam phase. The cam
alignment reference I'm familiar with is on the 10v, where the mark on the
cam pulley is aligned with the deck on the head ... is it that you had the
alignment mark on the opposite side of the motor?
Not a big deal, but it sounds like something someone else has suffered, and
without a doubt others will ... it'd be good to have this one in the old
brain box for reference.
Steve Buchholz
-----Original Message-----
Upon the insistence of one of my advisers on this task, who maintained
the backfire meant the crank was 180 degrees out of time with the
camshaft, I went through the painful process of realigning as
suggested. I found I could loosen the waterpump bolts just enough to
slide it into the loose belt position without leaking coolant. I think
the fact I coated the block and seal with a compatible grease before
installing the pump helped a lot. Once reassembled, with the auxiliary
radiator back in place, I fired right up.
However, I did fail in my efforts to seal up the intake. The gasket
between the throttle body and intake manifold looked smooth and so I
thought I'd be OK by just cleaning everything up. First chance to get
beyond maybe 1.3 boost, I got the big hit. Guess I'll have to strip
the old gasket off and apply a new one. No time now because I'm already
a week late in getting to Colorado, where we're heading tomorrow.
Anyway, thanks to all who helped suggest solutions to my troubles.
This has been a real ordeal for me. Sunday, the 11th, I fell off the
doorsill to my tractor cab, landing on my back five feet below. I've
had broken rib-type pain in my chest ever since. X-rays showed nothing,
but every move of my torso has been a sharp jab. First couple days I
couldn't do anything, and I originally was scheduled to leave last
Thursday. If I hadn't already taken the front off the car before my
fall, I wouldn't have done the timing belt in this circumstance.
Kneale Brownson wrote:
> With a freshly charged battery this a.m., the engine would spin quickly,
> but still no start. I got a couple backfires and then quit. I pulled
> the plugs--#1 had a little fuel on it, the rest smelled of fuel (these
> are new plugs), one through four had some black stuff on them, but #5
> has none--looks almost like it isn't firing or isn't getting fuel, but
> it smells of fuel.
>
> I've confirmed that the plug wires follow the firing order around the
> distributor.
>
> I've rechecked the other connections in the engine bay and can't find
> anything loose.
>
> Next step, I guess, is recheck the timing belt timing. I'm correct,
> aren't I, that the camshaft pulley's dot only aligns with the V mark on
> the valve cover at TDC? Even if I'm wrong, the new belt went on with
> the same alignment of crank and cam pulleys as the old one.
>
> Can I loosen the waterpump just enough to remove the belt without losing
> the $25 worth of Autobahn coolant I just put in?
>
> Kneale Brownson wrote:
>
>> Got the car buttoned up after the new timing belt ran on track (idler
>> pulley reset straight), and I get no start.
>>
>> Got an almost start before the battery, which has been sitting for
>> several weeks, started going low. Charged it up and used the charger
>> boost to augment starter operation. Engine spun a lot faster, backfired
>> once and no start.
>>
>> Camshaft and crankshaft orientation remained unchanged throughout the
>> belt replacement procedure. Used the locker to take the bolt loose.
>> Both cam and crank moved a degree or two when belt was untensioned, but
>> stayed that way until I put the belt back on. Had to move the
>> crank--and cam--slightly to get the tool back on, but ended up with the
>> cam pulley dot aligned the same with the arrow on the valve cover as it
>> had been when I loosened everything. My TDC "gauge" in the front
>> cylinder lined up at the mark I've used on it to do several other TBs,
>> and every time I spun the engine by hand, it still came up to the mark
>> when the cam pulley dot lined up.
>>
>> The other things: I replaced the spark plugs with new correct plugs. I
>> had the throttle body off to try to fix an air leak at its mating with
>> the intake manifold I discovered earlier with a pressurized intake
>> test. I used some carb cleaner to get the gunk off the throttle body
>> and intake manifold before reassembling.
>>
>> Suggestions?
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