How to check for sludge ?

[Ed Kellock]

So no longer than a year then.  Right.  Just gotta run the BG 44K gas out
then ready for new oil and filter.

Ed
 


-----Original Message-----
From: Grant Lenahan [mailto:glenahan at vfemail.net] 
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 12:45 PM
To: Ed Kellock
Cc: 'thejimrose'; 'Hayes Myers'; quattro at audifans.com
Subject: Re: How to check for sludge ?


yes, they do. But bear in mind that oils deteriorate for many reasons, 
and even with synthetic you must consider:

1. depletion of additives
2. accumulation of acids

Neither is affected by teh improved base stock

Grant

On 11/1/2010 2:24 PM, Ed Kellock wrote:
> I'm changing the oil this week in two V8s and a 91 Avant.  This will 
> be my 1st oil change in a year.  I'm using Rotella 5W40 in the V8s 
> (nice gallon jugs, 2 per car please, and 5 bux cheaper than the 
> corresponding Mobil 1
> synth) and Mobil 1 10w40 in the 242k mile Avant (unchipped).
>
> One V8 may have accumulated 10k miles over the past year.  The other 
> maybe, maaaybe 5k.  The same 5k for the Avant.
>
> Synthetic oils are supposed to allow longer change intervals, right?
>
> Ed
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: quattro-bounces at audifans.com 
> [mailto:quattro-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of thejimrose
> Sent: Monday, November 01, 2010 9:14 AM
> To: Hayes Myers
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: How to check for sludge ?
>
>
> disagree with 'change more and often'. 3k mile intervals is a COMPLETE 
> waste of oil and $ IMO. 5k [at least] intervals miles is more 
> reasonable and plenty safe even for a chipped motor. i've been 
> changing the oil in my 1.8 t every.. once in a while... ish or the 
> past 100k miles and makes great compression and no sludge [m1 0w40 
> with big filter and seafoam every other change]. k04 and ecu for 90k 
> miles [100 to 190].
>
> its not like the ecu makes the engine run hotter longer - you get more 
> boost on wot runs, for a few seconds at a time. yea temps will go up, 
> yea it's harder on the oil for those few seconds, but the car has a 
> radiator and intercooler for just such eventualities. probably less 
> than 2% of total drive time is the 'chip' doing anything. as long as 
> you're not running her hard and putting her up hot you'l be fine.
>
> i never sit w/ the car idling either. just stay out of boost the last 
> 10 mins of a drive to cool it down.
>
> On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 8:01 AM, Hayes Myers<hayesmyers at gmail.com>  
> wrote:
>
>> Since going with a modified ECU i was told to change oil at 5k which 
>> I am doing (3000 miles/5000 km)...and its some lubromoly crap (ok 
>> ok..pretty awesome stuff). I comply with the 5000 km interval i was 
>> advised on....especially since i'll be heating the oil up that much 
>> more in my turbo and have the potential for coking with this heat 
>> cycling etc.  Af for checking for sludge, i think maintenance records 
>> are helpful... and then the check under the filler cap would be 
>> useful.  From there....change the oil more and mroe often to avoid 
>> issues.
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 10:46 AM, thejimrose<thejimrose at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> pulling the pan is pretty major surgery.
>>>
>>> pulling the drain plug and scraping is more 'bend and cough' than 
>>> 'pass the bonesaw'
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 7:42 AM, Grant Lenahan<glenahan at vfemail.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> yea, i was thinking pull the pan, but that's a bit of a big deal at 
>>>> this stage.
>>>>
>>>> honestly, service records are your best indicator. They dont sludge 
>>>> if maintained!
>>>>
>>>> Grant
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 11/1/2010 10:22 AM, thejimrose wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> ive been told you can pull the drain plug and scrape around w a 
>>>>> bent coathanger in the oil pan for goo.
>>>>>
>>>>> if the oil cap / flashlight method yeilds questions you might try 
>>>>> that. _______________________________________________
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