Total NAC: Rust paint

[Robert Myers]

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Mark,

We have found the easiest and most productive way 
to paint railings is to pour some paint into a 
shallow pan (like a small cake pan or the like) 
and then put on a pair of rubber gloves topped 
with a pair of cotton work gloves.  Then just dip 
the palms/fingers of the cotton gloves in the 
paint and just sort of "milk" the paint onto the 
railings.  It goes fast and coverage is good with 
very little wastage of the paint.

Bob



At 11:36 AM 6/19/2011, Marc Boucher wrote:
>Painter started yesterday, on one balcony which 
>I supervised. After grinding off any loose rust 
>and paint, he put the rust converter in his 
>spray gun and began spraying. The amount of rust 
>converter that was required to coat everywhere 
>was surprisingly high. Since we're talking about 
>railings, its not surprising that a lot more is 
>required when spraying than when using a brush. 
>But at this rate, we would use $4000 of rust 
>converter. He says that he prefers spraying 
>because it gives an even coat everywhere. So he 
>will simply turn down the rate at which it 
>sprays the converter in order to cover 
>everywhere with what we have. Only about 10% of 
>the railing is rusty, and that's been ground 
>down. The rest is the original paint, which has 
>been left on since there's no sign of rust. 
>Spraying that 90% with rust converter does give 
>everywhere a smooth coat. It does etch the old 
>paint which the documentation says will serve to 
>prime the old paint. But I'm thinking that a 
>better strategy would be to only put rust 
>converter on areas where there's rust, and/or 
>rust that's been ground to metal. We would get 
>more rust converter on these spots, the spots 
>that turn black, but at the expense of using it 
>as an expensive 'etch/primer' for the old paint. 
>The old paint could be painted over in a 
>standard way (either just straight paint, or if 
>needed a standard primer then enamel paint). 
>Which of the two options above would you 
>recommend...thin layer of rust converter 
>everywhere, or save it and focus it on the 
>rusted areas? 
>-------------------------------------------------- 
>From: "Marc Boucher" <mboucher70 at hotmail.com> 
>Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 1:22 PM To: 
><quattro at audifans.com> Subject: Total NAC: Rust 
>paint > This group has always seemed to have 
>technical knowledge on all fronts so > I'll take 
>a shot at this. > > Need to repaint rusty metal 
>railings outdoor.  Have a number of options > 
>recommend to me.  Any thoughts among 
>these? > > > 1.) top of the line > a.) remove 
>all rust-sand to bare metal > b.) apply Zinc for 
>cathodic protection (can you recommend a few 
>names of > products) > c.) Anodic passaviation - 
>100% acrylic exterior membrane paint (can you > 
>recommend a few names of products? > > 2.) The 
>method recommended by the PPG rep (with the 
>caveat that it had to > be done right) > a.) 
>Remove loose rust then apply 2 coats of rust 
>converter > b.) apply 2 coats of their epoxy 
>paint (Amerlock) > c.) apply 1 coat of their 
>polyurethane paint (Amershield). (PPG also 
>makes > Pithane which is Urethane based...I'll 
>check why he didn't mention that) > > 3.) 
>Benjamin Moore Alkyd Enamel KP22 (Industrial 
>productwith Titanium > Dioxide, 394 g/L VOC) (an 
>alternative is Rustoleum) > a.) Remove loose 
>rust then apply 2 coats of rust converter > b.) 
>paint with BM Industrial Enamel KP22. The 
>painter recommends 1.5 coats > of enamel...1 
>coat, then touch ups. > > 4.) Benjamin Moore 
>Exterior Alkyd Enamel 133 (although the name 
>says > exterior, the spec sheet describes it as 
>Interior/Exterior...so presumably > it’s not a 
>high VOC content, but that’s not listed on the 
>spec sheet. > a.) Remove loose rust then apply 2 
>coats of rust converter > b.) paint with BM 
>Exterior Alkyd Enamel. The painter recommends 
>1.5 coats > of enamel...1 coat, then touch 
>ups. > > 5.) Local brand of Exterior Oil Based 
>Enamel. Our painter points out that > Benjamin 
>Moore is always more expensive than local brands 
>($70/gallon for > BM vs. $50/gallon for a 
>Canadian brand (Sico). He feels that the added > 
>expense isn't justified given that we're already 
>using multiple coats of > rust converter. Since 
>he's being paid for labor separate than for 
>paint, > his motivation for recommending the 
>less expensive paint would not be to > maximize 
>how much he takes home from the job. > a.) 
>Remove loose rust then apply 2 coats of rust 
>converter > b.) paint with the oil-based enamel. 
>The painter recommends 1.5 coats of > enamel...1 
>coat, then touch ups. > > Thanks for any 
>thoughts > > MC > 
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