Axel shaft removal

[Al]

This is to reply to all who helped me into the world of changing axles. I 
lined up all the necessary tools, reread your emails until I was doing it in 
my sleep. I had to wait about 3 weeks before the rebuilt CV driveshaft 
arrived on island.

This was going to e a two part project. 1. The front passenger axle and 
replace a badly leaking gasket on the oil pan.
I built a support for the engine per Huws suggestion, a 2x4, a ring bolt, 
 “S” hook and a few fender washers to spread the load. I cut the 2x4 to span 
the distance from fender to fender, leaving enough overhang to fit a small 
notched 2x4 to rest on the inside lip of the fender. Having notched both the 
long 2x4 and the ends it placed the 2x4 a little higher, so it didn’t touch 
the fender.

Well everything went well, the axle stub partially fell out of the hub.  I 
dropped both control arms, one so I could move the hub around and also to 
remove the sub frame. By doing that, I had lots of room to move the axle hub 
out to the side. The inner flange was presoaked with PB blaster so I used an 
eighteen inch 3/8” shaft to reach the 12 point bolts. I cleaned them out as 
best I could and proceeded to insert the appropriate socket. Once I had it 
in, I adjusted the depth by a few medium taps to drive it to the bottom. I 
then attached my 1/2” impact driver and reversed the bolt out. Not one 
problem.

I finished the axle late yesterday, sore and beat up. I did the oil pan this 
AM, it really helped having the sub frame out of there. (Still have some 
leaks.)

Again Mahalo, and my ‘90 80 thanks you.

Al
Honolulu

PS. I must have received a bad CV driveshaft. I ran it for about 5 miles 
doing small shopping trips yesterday 2/7/12. Today I was taking the wife to 
dialysis and it sounded like big marbles rolling around or like a lose nut 
rolling around in a hub cap. The only difference I could see between my old 
axle and this new one, was the balls looked a lot bigger on the inner joint 
of the new axle.  Other than that, they appeared to be the same.

So I may need to reorder from the mainland, again. No stock on this island.

More later.



-----Original Message----- 
From: Huw Powell
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 7:28 AM
To: Al
Cc: Quattro
Subject: Re: Axel shaft removal



> I have a torn CV boot and want to change the cv driveshaft. How much
> trouble is it to remove the splined shaft from the hub? Can I back
> out the bolt that’s holding the shaft some, and hit it with a hammer?
> Or is there a puller/pusher that can be rented?

It should just slide out, unless someone put loctite on it.  Get the
bolt started with the car on the ground (and torque it the same way).
Theoretically you are supposed to replace the bolt but no one does.

Dropping the ball joint ought to give you enough play to get the shaft
out of the hub.


> BTW put the oil pan on hold until I can build a frame to hold the
> engine up, so I can drop the sub-frame.

That should be as easy as a 2x4 "on edge" across the engine bay. Drill a
hole through it, get a sturdy (1/4" or so) battery tiedown, hook it to
the hoist bracket on the engine, and use a nut and washer on the top to
take out all the slack and lift the engine just a tad.


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