Motor dies after first start

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From: Al <streichea001 at hawaii.rr.com>
To: Quattro
<Quattro at audifans.com>
Subject: Motor dies after first start
Message-ID:
<529AD4E9.5050909 at hawaii.rr.com>
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When I start the car (1990 80) for
the first time, it runs for about 5 
seconds and Stops.
When I try
again, it takes 5-10 seconds before it fires, then increases 
RPMs
slowly with rough running. To me it seems like it has too much gas.

After the engine warms up, no problems. I've pulled the codes and 
they
are 4-4-4-4.
Any thoughts?

I put on new filter a couple of weeks ago,
but this problem has been 
bugging me for a long time.

Question? I live
in a tropical environment, temps are never below 65, so 
do I really
need a cold start injector? Can I disconnect it?

My past problem with
my instrument panel lights has been fixed. I 
cleaned all screw
terminals and lugs for ground wires. I found what was 
causing my
license plate lights from not lighting, broken wires in 
trunk. I fixed
them with solder and shrink sleeving.

Happy Holidays to
all.

Al
___________________________________ 
Hey Al,

Let us know if
you have a four-, or a five-banger. It may become relevant.

Don't
unhook that cold-start injector just yet. It doesn't sound like your
problem is related to it. 'Cold-star' is relative. They (all gas
engines) start better when 'cold' with some sort of enrichment. If you
unhook it, even in the tropics, you are going to wonder what happened to
that famous instant starting that all CIS cars are famous for (when all
is working correctly).

Your problem: Could be many things, but the
first thing to check is control pressure. All of the characteristics of
the fueling of a CIS car are directly related to it. It's absolutely the
foundation.

The cold-start injector provides cold start enrichment, ie,
enrichment during the start-process only. Then the control-pressure
regulator sets a lower control pressure during cold running, to provide
a richer mixture than when the engine is up to operating temperature.
Then, it dials-up the control pressure as the engine warms up, to lean
it out to the correct mixture for an engine at full operating
temperature.

It sounds like your control pressure regulator isn't
providing that temperature related 'taper'.

I do not recommend just
changing the control pressure regulator as a diagnostic technique. It is
expensive. The pressure should be checked and then a guided decision
made from that.

Hey, I just though of another possible cause. Leaking
fuel injector o-rings can make a car act the way yours is acting. In
short, if they are old and dry, they leak when cold, then soften up a
bit when warm and seal up. Check those, too. If it has been five years
or more since they have been replaced, you could just replace them. They
are cheap. Sometimes easy to do, sometimes not. Otherwise, there are
some techniques that you can use to diagnose them as well. 

Good job on
the instrument panel.

Have fun.

Tom LH
Many CIS cars in my past, but
none currently.