Blower Motor Control Module Bypass (or replacement source)

Paul Caouette paxnobis at gmail.com
Thu Dec 26 08:41:26 PST 2013


We were on the road when we lost our ignition switch assembly. I visited a
local auto house picked up four toggles, some in-line fuses, 14 gage wire
in three colors, and some connectors. Then went to the local hardware store
and bought a panel of 1/4 beach. Drilled out some holes, mounted the
switches and used a magic marker.took out the lower left part of the dash
and screwed on the panel.  It looked awful, but served the purpose....so
much so that I delayed replacing it for several months. I'm sure you could
do the same with your module.


On Thu, Dec 26, 2013 at 6:40 AM, mboucher70 hotmail.com <
mboucher70 at hotmail.com> wrote:

>
>
> My blower motor control module went out for the second time
> in two years.  Followed the diagnostics
> that confirm it’s the module, not the motor (when you jumper two of the
> cables in the control module, motor runs at high speed).
>
>
>
> I’m out of town (in Toronto) and haven’t been able to source
> a local replacement for less that $250.
> I’m wondering about various options for a temporary fix to get home and
> allow time to shop around for a better price.
>
>
>
> 1.)
> Hard wiring the blower for the 6 hour drive back
> to Montreal (ie jumper the power cable in and out of the control module).
>  The blower will run on full
> speed which will be noisy but that’s the only downside I see.  I measured
> the current draw and its 10.5
> amps.   With a healthy battery,
> alternator, and mostly highway driving, I don’t see a problem electrically
>
> 2.)
> Same as above, but running the blower through a low
> resistance high capacity resistor that  could pick up at an electronics
> store, which might
> bring it down to medium speed for drive.
>
>
> 3.)
> Same as 2, but I read about using a common
> household object with low resistance, say a 100watt lightbulb, which could
> both
> stand the power without overheating, and would limit the total current
> draw.
>
> 4.)
> Running a wire into the car and using a toggle
> switch to turn fan on/off.  Don’t so much
> like this option for the risk of the 12V live contacting ground, although
> I know there’s a 30A fuse for the blower motor.
>
>
>
> Thanks for any thoughts.
>
> MC
>
>
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-- 
Paul Caouette
sv Wild Iris (V40-133)


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