Throttle switch

[Cody Forbes]

What car do you have again? They vary between having one part with both switches and having two separate switches. 

Also, checking continuity rather than voltage is a better way to check a switch. It should vary between an open circuit (infinite ohms) and a closed circuit with close to 0 ohms. Checking voltage is valid, but only if the voltage supply and ground are known to be perfect.

-Cody Forbes (mobile)

On Jun 10, 2013, at 8:03 PM, "Al" <streichea001 at hawaii.rr.com> wrote:

> I have been having problems with the first start of the day. I won’t start on the first try, runs a few seconds and dies. Then it takes a long cranking period before it finally fires, acting like it’s too rich.
> 
> I pulled the codes and only got one, 2344 or air leak. Valve cover. I fixed that this weekend and erased the code. 
> 
> This morning same thing but no codes. Ok, I fixed the air leak. 
> 
> I took out my Bentley, my home made VW1501 and checked the idle and full throttle switches.
> The idle shows 0 volts when closed and no battery  voltage when I open the throttle.
> 
> Full throttle closed shows approximate battery voltage and 0 volts when completely open.
> 
> Looks like I need a new throttle switch. I checked the FA and it only shows the upper (full throttle) switch. Part number 026-133-093D. Are the two switches on the cable assembly?
> 
> I pulled the codes again and no faults. (4-4-4-4)
> 
> Al  Honolulu 
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