My car storage regimen

[Grant Lenahan]

those are the two things i WOULD agree with ( not to disparage the others, but they are important and overlooked).

Brake fluid is hygroscopic.  Oil’s biggest enemy is dilution and acid.  The worst possible thing one can do is start a car and idle it  while, and turn it off. When you start a car it runs rich and generates lots of water and acid by products ( actually does the latter tow all the time).  You need to get it to normal operating temperature to get it leaned out and quit dumping gasoline in the oil, and then you need to run it above the boiling point of all these things (meaning above 212 degF) for long enough to boil them all off. Maybe 20 minutes on the highway?

This is true of a non-stores car as well.

G
On Dec 1, 2014, at 9:45 PM, DeWitt Harrison <dewitt635 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Montana brother shared his car storage regimen with me the other day. See
> below. I'm wondering how this might compare with the wisdom of the list.
> The two line items I'm a little skeptical about are the need to change all
> fluids based on time rather than mileage and the need to get the engine
> good and hot twice monthly. I've been driving my stored cars several miles
> twice a year although I admit I've had the 5000CS spring leaks at oil pan,
> hydraulic pump and ac compressor all at once this fall.
> 
> DeWitt
> 
> Brother's program:
> 
> -          Store in climate controlled space; at least 55 degrees or more;
> covered and/or away from U/V source
> 
> -          Keep only a few gallons of Techron-laced fuel in the tank
> (forget the Stabil)
> 
> -          Change to fresh oil and filter every couple years; OK to store
> oil in the crankcase rather than in the bottles
> 
> -          Change coolant and brake fluid every couple years or longer at
> personal discretion
> 
> -          Most importantly - run cars twice monthly for minimum of ½ hour
> @ over 2,000 RPMs for oil and exhaust to dry out; Do not just idle only!!
> Re-fuel with a couple fresh gallons when low fuel light comes on
> 
> -          Run A/C (if so equipped) and cycle heater controls
> 
> -          Unhook batteries (yep, the radio needs re-coding) and charge
> periodically or use Battery Tender
> 
> -          Pump the suspension up and down a few times but don’t stretch
> bushings to their limits by putting car up on blocks (yes, chance of
> flat-spotting tires if you don’t move the car)
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