My car storage regimen

[Grant Lenahan]

So, i was hoping to avoid the long version, but the rubber bushings that hold the control arms are in fact designed to move to remain pliable, as you say. The problem comes when they are held, under force, out of position, for long periods of time.  The most common culprit is a bushing/control arm that is torqued out of neutral position - e.g..: with the car lifted, and then returned to its wheels. It slowly tears.

This, in theory, is the reverse.  And the key is that this is a rubber band held in tension, but not moving.

That said, its not for years and years, its for ( i would guess) a couple of months.  But Cody’s suggestion is by far the best - more work maybe, but it certainly avoids all the pitfalls.

Grant
On Dec 2, 2014, at 9:27 AM, Paul Caouette <paxnobis at gmail.com> wrote:

> Not sure about this but I recall that all rubbers need flexing to retain their resilience. For example, a rubber band that it used weekly will last lots longer than one left in the drawer.
> 
> It has something to do with the crossed linked molecules. 
> 
> On Tue, Dec 2, 2014 at 8:56 AM, Grant Lenahan <glenahan at vfemail.net> wrote:
> best answer yet
> Althoguh i still question the need.
> 
> 
> On Dec 2, 2014, at 8:09 AM, Cody Forbes <cody at 5000tq.com> wrote:
> 
> > Just jack it up and put jack stands under the control arms so the weight is on the suspension.
> >
> > -Cody Forbes (mobile)
> >
> > On Dec 1, 2014, at 11:12 PM, "Jeremiah Curry" <jeremiah at curryclan.net> wrote:
> >
> >> I wonder if lifting the car, but not enough to get the tires off the ground would be a good compromise between getting weight off the tires and not overextending the bushings.
> >>
> >> -----Original Message----- From: cody at 5000tq.com
> >> Sent: Monday, December 1, 2014 7:52 PM
> >> To: DeWitt Harrison ; quattro at audifans.com
> >> Subject: Re: My car storage regimen
> >>
> >> Looks like a pretty good list to me. Brake fluid is supposed to be changed at least every two years anyways. Other fluids will deteriorate when sitting too. The various components of the fluids will separate in to individual chemicals when left to sit. Some of these will be toxic and damaging. He’s right about running it to get rid of moisture too; this method will keep internal bits oiled up. The top half of the gearbox can rust easily when just the bottom is sitting in oil. By spinning the drivetrain you get that oil splashing around and re-coating everything. Applies to cylinder walls and top end engine components as well.
> >>
> >>
> >> Over inflating the tires somewhat will help with flat spots too.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -Cody Forbes
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> From: DeWitt Harrison
> >> Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎December‎ ‎1‎, ‎2014 ‎9‎:‎45‎ ‎PM
> >> To: quattro at audifans.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Montana brother shared his car storage regimen with me the other day. See
> >> below. I'm wondering how this might compare with the wisdom of the list.
> >> The two line items I'm a little skeptical about are the need to change all
> >> fluids based on time rather than mileage and the need to get the engine
> >> good and hot twice monthly. I've been driving my stored cars several miles
> >> twice a year although I admit I've had the 5000CS spring leaks at oil pan,
> >> hydraulic pump and ac compressor all at once this fall.
> >>
> >> DeWitt
> >>
> >> Brother's program:
> >>
> >> -          Store in climate controlled space; at least 55 degrees or more;
> >> covered and/or away from U/V source
> >>
> >> -          Keep only a few gallons of Techron-laced fuel in the tank
> >> (forget the Stabil)
> >>
> >> -          Change to fresh oil and filter every couple years; OK to store
> >> oil in the crankcase rather than in the bottles
> >>
> >> -          Change coolant and brake fluid every couple years or longer at
> >> personal discretion
> >>
> >> -          Most importantly - run cars twice monthly for minimum of ½ hour
> >> @ over 2,000 RPMs for oil and exhaust to dry out; Do not just idle only!!
> >> Re-fuel with a couple fresh gallons when low fuel light comes on
> >>
> >> -          Run A/C (if so equipped) and cycle heater controls
> >>
> >> -          Unhook batteries (yep, the radio needs re-coding) and charge
> >> periodically or use Battery Tender
> >>
> >> -          Pump the suspension up and down a few times but don’t stretch
> >> bushings to their limits by putting car up on blocks (yes, chance of
> >> flat-spotting tires if you don’t move the car)
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> 
> -- 
> Paul Caouette
> sv Wild Iris (V40-133)