[s-cars] Air compressor

[Calvin & Diana Craig]

I have two compressors, one a 1970 Sears Model that is 25 Gallon, and one
that is a 60 Gallon vertical.

Two big factors to consider, which by the way are getting harder to find.
1) You are much better off with the twin cylinder heads, usually can put out
a more consistent scfm with less heat, also usually "truer" rated on the
rate, it's kind of like the Pyramid 1000 Watt Amps you can buy at Pawn Shops
for $99...Yes, they put out 1000 watts, just before they blow up!

2) Make 100% sure that the motor is separate from the compression head, i.e.
belt driven or similar.  This is important because the first thing that
always goes on compressors, especially the 120V variety, are the motors.
When the compression head and the motor are 1 piece not only does the motor
get hotter and therefore wear out much faster but you can't find a
replacement motor on a standard frame size.  You usually wind up having to
get the damn thing rebuilt which costs more than the new motor would if it
were on a standard frame size.

Be wary of the HP ratings of the motors, too.  I can't tell you how many "3
HP" units there are out there that run on a 120V/15 Amp circuit.....hmmmm
746 watts = 1HP, 15 Amps * 120 Volts = 1800 Watts, / 746 = about 2.4 HP IF
the motor was 100% efficient, yeah right!

220 volt motors are usually much better about this.

The PSI gives you the torque, the flow rate gives you the ability to keep up
with it for long periods of time, which usually is required on lower
"torque" but high speed apps, that is head porting, sprayer painting, etc.

--Calvin




-----Original Message-----
From: s-car-list-admin at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-admin at audifans.com]On Behalf Of Richard Molk
Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2002 8:44 PM
To: S-CAR-List at audifans.com
Subject: [s-cars] Air compressor


Hello Darin:

I am on my second air compressor, this one with an 80 gallon upright
tank and an intercooler with high cfm. The first was a Sears horizontal
regular model, with good portability but not enough cfm. You need to
evaluate what the tools require before you buy. If you are going with
the air hammer (great tool, I love it), you need 90 psi to 100 psi and
usually 9-11 cfm. However, the demands are intermittent, so you don't
need as big a tank. For a grinder (which I love) you need high output
cfm to run it constantly. Worse yet is the rotary sander and the
oscillating sander as they use tons of air. The intercooler makes the
air charge denser as it leaves the first stage (the medium compression
piston) to go to the second stage (high pressure), giving more
compressed air for the same power current. I plumbed my whole garage
with black iron pipes and multiple outlets, to make it easier.

So if you know what you want to do with the tools, that dictates the
cfm (listed on each tool) at the appropriate psi, also listed on the
tool.

Make sure to add the oil each time you connect the tool and you should
have the beginning of a wonderful love affair with your new tools. One
caveat: use eye protection. I have seen multiple eye injuries including
large chunks of metal launched inside of eyes from accidents with air
tools. I hang a pair of goggles on the tools themselves, so I cannot
really attach them without thinking of the eye protection. Also, only
impact sockets are tough enough to trust on an air hammer. Guess what?
love them too.

Yours,
Rich

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