[s-cars] Clutch install the final episode

[Chad Tobin, UrS4/S6 Technical Editor]

Hey Guys,

  Just remembered to finish this. If anyone has any questions shoot me an
e-mail.

Part 3:

This procedure is for doing an S4 clutch change with the car on the ground
elevated on jack stands. This write up is not intended as a substitute for
the Bentley service manual.

9) Getting the trans back on:  By now you should have the trans firmly
situated on the transmission jack. If you have the downpipe in place like I
did, roll the trans all the way up to it and gradually raise the trans. If
you took the downpipe off you will probably have a much easier time of it.
You want to have the engine tilted back as far as you can. As soon as you
get the trans over the downpipe and moving towards the engine you will want
to start working the halfshafts back in place. You can push the trans one
way and get one on and then do the other side. Once you get the halfshafts
close to where they need to be you can start lining up the trans with the
engine. While your moving over the downpipe watch out for the steering rack
and the coolant hose bracket that attaches to the trans. Get it fairly
close and start adjusting the jack so the holes are lined up. It helps to
put one of the longer bolts through and use it as a guide. Once you have
the trans lined up give it a push and maybe a little wiggle. Mine went all
the way on very easily when I got the right pressure plate. Don?t draw it
down with the bolts! If you have it lined up and all the parts are correct
there should be no need to draw it down. My friend who was helping me told
me this but I still cracked my bell housing trying to draw it down over the
wrong pressure plate and eventually ruined the trans trying to make it fit.
Again, it should slide all the way on. Put a couple of bolts in to hold it
in place.

10) The linkage: This is pretty easy if you disconnected it at the trans.
If you?re doing it ala Bentley you are in for a struggle. Put the to
linkage pieces together and install the securing bolts. Then re-attach the
linkage to the trans.

11) The slave: Well after doing this you will probably wonder which one of
you is the slave. This was one of the biggest pains of the whole job. If
you haven?t removed the drivers side mounting arm from the trans you may
want to do so now. First, grease the hell out of the rubber boot on the
slave where it goes through the trans. Another thing I did was grind about
1/8 inch of threads off of the end of the slave bolt so it is easier to get
started. You may be able to shove it in far enough to catch on the little
ridge that holds it in place. Then get the bolt in and push the slave a
little farther into the trans and get the bolt started. Doesn?t sound too
hard does it? It sucks. At least the last 10 tries do.

12) Finishing up: Put all of the bolts back in that you can reach from
under the hood. Lower the jack in the front of the engine. Jack up the tail
of the trans mission so you can get the bottom bolts on. Torque all the
bolts and plug the 2 connectors back in. Put your new gaskets on the CV
joint flanges and bolt them back on. Torque to spec. Put the halfshaft
cover back on. Bolt the rear driveshaft back on and re-install the cover.
Hang the exhaust and you should be done. I?ve probably forgot something but
it beats "Installation is the reverse of removal" doesn?t it?
Make sure you have the proper service manual and tools. This job is not all
that complicated but you have to do it right or you will be in for a lot
more work.

Chad Tobin
UrS4/S6 Technical Editor
S-CARS.ORG