[s-cars] H&R info

Robert Pastore rpastore at animalfeeds.com
Wed Sep 4 13:02:54 EDT 2002


Taka:

Maybe.......maybe not.

If you are doing both sides (which is typically the case), and your front
sway bar mounts feel like cooperating (50/50 chance), you can disconnect the
front sway bar mounts from the subframe, then you are not fighting the
swaybar trying to gain enough clearance for spring removal and install.
I've also found that an old pitman arm puller I've had forever is the
perfect tool to remove the tie rod ball joint without touching the boot.

Anyway you slice it, this job can be a PITA.

If you choose to remove the strut assembly, be careful not to rip the lower
control arm ball joint boot -- Sometimes it's a bitch to get the ball joint
stud back into place in the strut assembly. The boot can take a beating
while you wrestle it.   The lower control arm boot for the S4/s6 isn't
available separately, so the Stealer would have you buying a whole new
control arm.   Fortunately, the boot for a V8 or 5000 is available.  I think
the V8 boot is identical, but it wasn't in stock so no BTDT.  I settled on a
5K boot, which has a smaller ball joint stud, but with a little coaxing it
fit just fine.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: TM [mailto:t44tq at mindspring.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 10:38 AM
To: bob.rossato at att.net; 'Paul Krasusky'
Cc: 's-car-list'
Subject: RE: [s-cars] H&R info


Bob-
It's actually easier to remove the whole strut assembly from the car
unless you're only changing shocks.

Taka

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