[s-cars] Re: [A4] A4 head rebuild, Part 2

[Igor Kessel]

PART 2 - parts and tools list.

5. With the head on the bench you can now access the number of the
needed parts.
My 1998 Audi A4 1.8T quattro, VIN: W-077066 took the following:

- Timing Belt Kit 058-198-479 $125.00 1 $125.00
- roller 058-109-244 $30.08 1 $30.08 dealer only
*note* Get the kit rather than individual parts, the kit contains the
belt (z=152 teeth) and the new redesigned tensioner. This roller is not
part of the kit, but you do need it.

- V-belt, P/S 058-145-271 $5.00 1 $5.00 A11X528mm
- Poly-rib belt 06B-903-137 $14.00 1 $14.00 5K1295, 17.8x1300mm
- Poly-rib belt, A/C 058-260-849-A $8.00 1 $8.00 4K857, 14.24x855mm
*note* IMO reinstalling back the cheap accessory belts makes about as
much cense as reusing condoms.

- Head gasket set 058-198-012 $95.00 1 $95.00
*note* It includes both new valve cover gaskets, the Intake and the
Exhaust Manifold gaskets, 20 now valve seals, one(!) camshaft oil seal
and some little things.

- Oil seal 068-103-085-E $4.04 dealer
*note* For some reason only one camshaft oil seal comes with the head
gasket set. This one is for the second camshaft. Both seals are
identical.

- Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Gasket 058-253-039-D $4.05 dealer
*note* For some reason not included in the kit above.

- Exhaust Manifold nuts, M8, 13pc.
*note* I prefer squished pure Cu aftermarket ones to the Steel OEM ones

- Gasket set for the chain tensioner 058-198-217 $7.52 dealer
*note* The chain tensioner comes off with the camshafts.

- Water pump impeller 026-121-005-K $24.00 1 $24.00
*note* It does it come with a gasket.
- Sealing washer N 013 849 4 $0.30 1 $0.30
*note* For the WP drain plug.

- Thermostat, 87C 050-121-113-C $9.00 1 $9.00
*note* Comes with a new O-ring.

- Antifreeze, RED! G 012 A8 D $7.00 3 $21.00
*note* MAY NOT be mixed with G 011 A8 C (green).

- Head Bolts 058-103-385-B $3.20 10 $32.00
*note* You DO need the new bolts. The head bolts are not reusable. They
stretch by about 1mm per use. This is evident if you put a new bolt and
an old bolt up against each other. The thread will not go crest into
valley coz the old bolt will be longer. BTW, methinks that's why in
every Audi engine that I have taken apart the head bolts were the odd
11mm DIA. Audi probably doesn't want you substitute the proper bolts by
who-knows-what sourced from your local hardware store.
The new head bolts will be the new style, 6-point, "Polydrive". For this
you will need a special tool, Zelenda p/n 3452 "Polydrive Key".

- Exhaust Valves 058-109-611-E $42.00 8 $336.00
*note* Na filled, NOT to be three-angle cut, hand lapping only
permitted.

- Hose, Bypass Valve to Intake Manifold N 101 965 02 $4.00 1m $4.00 3mm
ID, rubber, fabric braided
*note* Now that it is exposed it would be a good idea to replace that
brittle, perpetually breaking little hose that runs from the IM to BPV
right under the upper radiator hose and usually causes a "False Air"
code thrown at you.

- Injector seal 039-133-557-B $1.64 4 $6
*note* We are replacing the 4 large O-rings, not the 8 small ones.

6. Get the BRACKET FOR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT from Zelenda, p/n 3366. It is
only $18.50 and you will need it big time. It relieves the pressure on
the chain tensioner and allows you to remove, but most importantly to
install back both camshafts from and into the head. Without this tool
the second camshaft will sit diagonally crooked in the 1st and 5th
bearings and if you attempt to tighten it down in the bearing beds by
its journals it may crack in two pieces coz it is made out of fragile
cast iron and is hollow AND if it cracks it WILL take the bed and the
5th bearing cap along with it. In this case you will need a new camshaft
AND a new Aluminium head casting coz even if the head with the bearing
beds is [sand]cast separately from the [die]cast bearing caps, they are
later assembled as one and are line bored as a whole. Thus the bearing
caps are not even available separately from Audi. If you brake one -
you'll be frantically searching the e-bay, and all over the nation's
junkyards trying to find a used head casting. Go ahead, ask me how I
know all this, now $530 later due to the additional costs incurred ONLY
coz I had neglected to buy that $18.50 tool from Zelenda. Convinced yet?
I thought so.

7. Get the Craftsman Abrasive Pads for Dremel: 9-53164 $2.49 for head
cleaning.

8. Get the special Audi valve spring removal tool. The regular tool made
for low tech American cars with exposed valve springs which you can rent
from Pep Toys and the like is not suited for the deeply recessed Audi
springs hidden by the hydraulic lifters. I used my old trusty two-part
tool which I have been using on 5 cylinder heads for all these years.
However, its Aluminium pressfoot is 32mm DIA x 85mm Lg and whereas it is
adequate for the exhaust valve lifter wells, it is way too large for the
24mm intake valve lifter wells. Therefore I had to ask my machinist to
fabricate yet another Aluminium pressfoot for the intake valves: 24mm
DIA x 120mm Lg. Yes, it needs to be longer as well coz otherwise there's
no way in hell you'll be able to insert the tweezers with a valve keeper
into the slot machined in the side of the pressfoot.

9. Get the special Audi valve guide seal removal tool. As always I used
my old trusty tool which I have been using on 5 cylinder heads for all
these years. It is the long pliers with a serrated semi circle welded
onto each jaw tip. But as in the paragraph above, the narrow intake
valve wells necessitated the redrilling and re-rivetting of the pliers
so that the jaw span has become sufficiently narrow in order to fir
inside the intake valve well w/o scoring the walls.

10. Get the special Audi valve guide seal insert tool. As always I used
my old trusty tool which I have been using on 5 cylinder heads for all
these years. It is essentially a tube on a handle with the ID = the oil
seal flange. Once again, the tool has to be 24mm DIA or less overall in
order to fit inside the intake valve well w/o scoring the walls.

(to be continued)

--
Igor Kessel
two turbo quattros