[s-cars] Pressure Test

[Ed Walsh]

Mike and Bob Rossato,

OK, you guys are both right.  Lots of stuff needs to
be plugged/blocked/rammed, etc.

After unsuccessfully trying to seal the IM/ISV from
the compressed air via Banana in the tail pipe, I then
duct tape the shit out of all of these orifices - A
scene somewhat similar to a Tom Clancy novel.

I still heard a leak, which pumped me up, only to find
that air was reverse flowing from the ISV itself,
which let me down.  I then plugged that only to find
air coming out of the IM itself.

WTF, has anyone EVER successfully PT a AAN intake
tract?

It turns out that, it appears, the intake is sound and
I am back to square 12.  After reassembling
everything, I reset the ECU (first time after
installing #2's MAF :) and went for a test ride.

The car lurched and gagged a lot at 17-20 PSI.
Although the boost didn't fluctuate, the car would
sometimes jump out of its skin and pull like a
banshee.  Other times, though boost was consistent, it
felt restricted by ???

The only thing not tested/replaced on the car is the
WGFV (I have done the clicking diag. test and she
clicked loud and proud).   Can anyone tell me, other
than total failure/no boost, how a weak WGFV would
operate?

Ed - thinking an NA S8 would be pretty sweet right
about now....


--- mlp qwest <mlped at qwest.net> wrote:
> Ed -
>
> ? "An adapter...."  Singular?
>
> I may be missing something here, but what, if
> anything, do you do to keep
> air from leaking past the throttle body or ISV, into
> the intake manifold and
> from there, I presume, out one or more of the five
> cylinders with an open
> valve or two? Or worse, into a cylinder that may
> have its exhaust valves
> closed, and past the rings?  There may be some
> things you really don't want
> to find out about, yet....  :-).
>
> Do you hear, see or feel any air coming out the
> tailpipe or up through the
> crankcase?  Or, are we doing this thinking the
> throttle body butterfly plate
> & ISV valve are pretty air tight?  The ISV hose may
> be small enough that you
> can "pinch" it off with a pair of long nose vice
> grips, but the throttle
> body hose....?  I think you need to pull it off the
> intake manifold & plug
> it off as well.
>
> My guess is, if you have a hole or a crack, 3.5 psi
> is the threshold
> pressure required to hold it open enough to cause
> the leak to be noticeable.
>
> I think maybe you need an air compressor mit tank
> and a pressure regulator
> which can  be set to put in and then (try) to "hold"
> pressure at a 15+ psi
> level while you look for the source of the hissing
> sounds.  Sealing off the
> intake should take your ECU pressure sensor out of
> harms way as well.
>
> Mikey
>
> ~-----Original Message-----
> ~On Behalf Of Ed Walsh
> ~
> ~Some may know, ad nauseum, that I have been trying
> to
> ~fix a lower than expected max boost issue.
>
> ....
> ~
> ~I made an adapter out of a 3" male sewer clean-out
> cap
> ~(great tip!), for the hose that attaches to the
> MAF.
> ~I installed an air compressor quick connect adapter
> ~thru the cap.  All is air tight.  Here is what I
> did
> ~the perform the test, tell me if I am doing this
> ~righto:
> ~
> ~
> ~Thanks a Million,  Ed
> ~
>
>


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