[s-cars] CV Joint

[serge]

Not sure if this applies to our cars, but if you removed an axle from any VW
rabbit/golf and then lowered the car off the jack/stands (to roll it to a
different location or something), you scrapped the front wheel bearing. The
splined axle shaft was actually part of the support for the wheel bearing.
If the front suspension was loaded without the shaft in place the front
wheel bearings failed within a short time, BTDT.


Serge Filanovsky

95 S6 Avant





> --- Igor Kessel <igor at s-cars.org> wrote:
>> Bob Frizzell wrote:
>>> S-Men,
>>> It looks like I have to do my outer CV boots and replace one CV joint as a
>> Christmas present for my wife (to go with her Black and Decker Beauty Kit).
>> At any rate I have looked in the archives and, famous last words, "this looks
>> like a job I can handle".  I'm wondering about pulling the joint off the
>> axle.  I notice there is a tool in the Bentley (3207) for this purpose.  Do I
>> need it?  Could I not use a long bolt instead?  Any other words of wisdom?
>> All help greatly appreciated.  I foresee myself out in the garage, under the
>> Audi cursing and swearing on Christmas eve.
>>> Best of the Season to all you Audi buddies,
>> 
>> Bob,
>> it is a messy but an easy and quick job. No need to remove the strut or
>> the antisway bar. Break loose the big a$$ center bolts while on the
>> ground (DO NOT roll the car wiht the bolt removed!), jack up the front,
>> undo the inner CV joint bolts with the 12-point "triple square" bit,
>> turn the  wheels to the rightmost position, wiggle about and remove one
>> axle, use the bolt for the CV joint removal per Stefan's instructions,
>> repack with grease form the kit, replace the boot, reclamp with new
>> Oettiker clamps form the kit with the Oettiker clamps KD-424 or the
>> like, reinstall the joint into the hub, tighten the 6 small 12-point bolts.
>> Turn the wheels to the opposite lock and repeat the procedure for the
>> other axle.
>> Install the new big a$$ center bolts from the kit and finger tighten
>> tehm. Lower the car oto the ground. Torque them to spec.
> 
> i will admit that i neglected to loosen the center bolt before jacking
> up the car and taking the wheels off.  a quick burst from my IR 2131
> impact wrench took care of that.
> 
> you do not need to remove the antiroll bar or strut.  as igor describes,
> disconnect the axleshaft from the transmission with the 10mm
> triplesquare bit.  turn the wheels to full lock.  this should give you
> enough play to pull the axleshaft away from the transmission, and then
> you'll be able to get the other end out of the hub.
> 
> the center bolt may not be quite long enough to pop the CV joint off
> the axleshaft.  it just occurred to me that instead of using a hammer,
> i could have found a small piece of metal to drop into the threaded
> hole, to use as a spacer so the bolt could pull the CV joint the rest
> of the way.
> 
> having the right tools is definitely important.
> the stock CV axle bolts are probably 27mm cap screws.  the replacement
> bolts are probably 17mm allen.  look for a 17mm "transmission plug bit"
> at the auto parts store, used on VW/audi, BMW, and porsche.
> 
> the triple square bit is 10mm.  you can buy it at the auto parts store,
> too, probably as a set.
> 
> the CV joint boot clamp pliers are available at the auto parts store, too.
> 
> the 17mm allen bit, 10mm triple square bit, and boot clamp pliers are
> pretty cheap - maybe about $20 total.
> 
> i noticed the passenger side outer CV boot is cracking, so i'll replace
> it soon.  i don't want it to split while i'm up at lake tahoe, and
> swallow a bunch of salt and sand before i get the car home to fix it.
> 
> -teddy
> 
> 
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