[s-cars] taking my turn - resolved

Philip Mische pmische at comcast.net
Fri Feb 21 15:49:52 EST 2003


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Yes, it was helpful - once again jabbing something with sharp sticks brings=
 results- getting the terminals out of the connectors was a bit of a trial.=
  And yes the problem was with the POS.

I don't agree with the cut & splice operation however, that should not be n=
ot necessary.

After the offending POS channel is identified you end up with one 3-channel=
 POS and one 2-channel POS.  The 3- channel one goes on the right (looking =
at the firewall) for cylinders 1, 2, & 3, with the top & bottom harnesses p=
lugged in normally.  The 2-channel one goes on the left for cylinders 4 & 5=
.  Swap the wires/terminals (if necessary) in the top & bottom harnesses fo=
r the left one to make sure the good 2 channels are now used; the dead one =
will be blank.

http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/S4_Ignition.htm goes through the process step=
 by step.

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Robert Myers
  To: Philip Mische
  Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 2:00 PM
  Subject: Re: [s-cars] taking my turn


  See below.  I think the attached write-up will likely answer your questio=
ns.



  At 01:57 PM 2/21/2003 -0500, you wrote:


    Yes, I've done the sleuthing, found the culprit, swapped the POSes, BUT=
 I CAN'T GET THE DARN CONNECTORS APART TO CHANGE THE PINS!

    Any ideas?

    Tnx,

    Phil Mische

      ----- Original Message -----

      From: Robert Myers

      To: Philip Mische

      Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 12:05 PM

      Subject: Re: [s-cars] taking my turn


      At 06:00 PM 2/20/2003 -0500, you wrote:


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        Gents,


        95.5 S6.  Chipped, runs fine.  Turn off the car.  One hour later I =
fire it up and not everyone fires up - it acts like it's got a fouled plug.=
  It's very unhappy, and so am I.  We limp home, grateful I don't have to d=
eal with this out on the road with my 4-yr-old in the back seat.


        Pulled the sparking plugs out, they all look fine (!).  I have 2 qu=
estions (for now):


        1) Is this how a bad POS behaves?


      It can be.  A bad POS channel produces a permanent miss in the effect=
ed channel.  You can do some sleuthing and then some rewiring to bypass the=
 bad POS channel virtually for free.


        2) What's the correct spark plug torque?  After all the discussions=
 about plugs tearing out of their mounts and denting the hood, after all th=
e discourse RE the importance of torquing them correctly (w/o anti-seize) -=
 I can't find the damn torque spec in Bentley.  If you want just tell me th=
e page #...


      21 ft-lb, IIRC.



        TIA


        Phil Mische

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      ____


      I've been wondering... Who would Jesus bomb?


      Bob

      *****

       Robert L. Myers  304-574-2372

       Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA  WV tag Q SHIP

       '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen   ICQ 22170244

       http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm

      *****



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  ____

  I've been wondering... Who would Jesus bomb?

  Bob
  *****
   Robert L. Myers  304-574-2372
   Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA  WV tag Q SHIP
   '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen   ICQ 22170244
   http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm
  *****




---------------------------------------------------------------------------=
---




  urS-car PSO "repair"

  Bob Myers      <robert at s-cars.org>

  Diagnosis:  One cylinder missing.  Plugs, ignition boot, etc., are all OK=
.  The miss happens at all times, idle through WOT.  If the miss happens on=
ly when some boost is being developed then the problem is likely to be one =
of the individual cylinder coils rather than the PSO.

  This basic technique was suggested by Jeff Hemmerlin.

  The Power Stage Output for the urS4/S6 is a three channel device which fe=
eds a signal to the individual coils for each spark plug.  Two PSO units ar=
e required.  This provides 6 (2x3) channels, of which only 5 are used.  Whe=
n one channel goes bad it is possible to disconnect the wires from the faul=
ty channel and move them to the unused channel.  Of course, this can be don=
e only once.  The second time it happens you are forced to buy a new PSO.  =
Perhaps that should be spelled P$O.

  Determine which cylinder is not firing properly.  Remove the cover over t=
he fuel rail.  Let the engine idle.    Unplug each injector, one at a time,=
 until no difference in idle character is made with the injector either plu=
gged in or unplugged.  You will be converting the idle of a five cylinder e=
ngine hitting on only 4 cylinders to a five cylinder engine hitting on only=
 three cylinders.  This is a quite noticeable difference.

  The two PSO units are mounted on the firewall behind and slightly toward =
the passenger side of the car (left hand drive) under the black plastic shi=
eld.  They are oriented such that they are upside down with respect to each=
 other.  Remove the shield and unplug the smaller connectors (three pins ea=
ch).  One will have three internal connections and the other will have two =
and an empty spot.  That empty spot marks the unused "spare" channel.  That=
 spare channel is for "cylinder #6".  The other two connections of that plu=
g are for #4 & #5.  Audi is nice and orderly, they are in numerical order. =
 The connector having three connection positions is for cylinders #1 thru #=
3 and they are also in numerical order.  The black wires going to the coils=
 are numbered clearly with Arabic numerals.

  After determining which of these black coil wires is to be moved pull the=
 plug containing that wire and peel back the rubber boot covering the wire =
end of the plug.  Using a sharp knife blade, gently pry the retaining clip =
holding the inner parts of the plug away from the retaining pin and slip th=
e innards out of the plug.  It will come out easily as a smaller (probably =
hot pink color) plug piece.  You will see small snap levers which hold the =
individual connectors inside the main unit.  Use the "special tool" (consis=
ting of a couple of ~1mm by 10mm flat steel pins which slip into the connec=
tor piece just like it was the mating half of the PSO).  This frees the pin=
 up so that it will slide out by pulling the wire.  The tool is available a=
t fairly reasonable price from Snap-On but could probably be Jerry-rigged f=
rom a thin piece of metal.  I borrowed one from a helpful mechanic friend.

  Now this operation becomes a cut and splice operation.  Cut the wire goin=
g to the "missing" cylinder and crimp on a butt connector.  Then crimp in a=
 second piece of wire (to lengthen the wire by perhaps 5 inches or so - do =
a trial fit before crimping anything) so that it will reach the spare conne=
ctor to which it will be attached.  (You will likely need to slit one of th=
e plastic weather shield cable covers to extract the wire far enough to wor=
k on it.  When the job is complete cover the slit with a wrapping of electr=
ician's tape to restore the weather resistance.)  I was able to do this so =
that the entire crimped connector is covered by the rubber boot.  If you ar=
e lucky and either #4 or #5 is not firing then the cut/splice is not necess=
ary, simply move the wire from one slot to "#6".

  Now disconnect the larger 4 pin connectors and examine where "#6" is in r=
elation to the other three pins of that connector.  The closest is #5 the n=
ext is #4 and the far one is (I'm assuming) the power lead.  It may be some=
thing else but it doesn't matter for our purposes.  The other 4 pin connect=
or is numbered similarly.  "Power" through #3.  Remove the small connector =
for the "missing cylinder" and cut/splice as needed so that it may connect =
with the "#6" space.

  Details:
  Keep leads reasonably short
  Use heat shrink insulation over splices
  Where necessary, slip leads through the rubber boots in such a way that e=
verything remains dry.
  "Repair" any needed slits in insulating weather covers with electrician's=
 tape (or the like).





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