[s-cars] How to save $$ for newbies (was Bilstein and Intrax camber fix)

[Dave Forgie]

Yup. (Well, at least I think so).  Like a lot of modern car repairs, there is
a lot of "overhead" to get at the actual part that needs to be critically
replaced.  As a result, if you do more than one thing at the same time, even
if the "extra" work wasn't critically needed,  you will save $$ (mostly
labour costs) over the long run.  Examples of this are when you are doing a
clutch on an S4/S6 - you are wise to also do the pilot bearing, the throw-out
bearing and the rear crankshaft seal - even if they are all "fine").  When
you have your timing belt done (by a knowledgeable Audi-familiar mechanic
with the proper crank-lock tools), you are wise to do at least the water pump
(with a German-built water pump) and idler pulley,  if not also the cam
position sensor.  So when you are doing a front suspension change, the extra
cost of the new strut bearing/mounts is a relatively small incremental cost
compared to the overall cost.  What you should do now is up to you.  With 1.3
deg of negative camber, you will probably like the way the car corners but
the outside edges of your tires won't and will probably wear much sooner than
you would have anticipated.  So your trade-offs are cost of tires versus the
cost of going back in and replacing the mounts (having them slotted
beforehand) and having the alignment redone.  Tough call.

I am not the preeminent expert in these matters.  However, I have enough BTDT
($$ down the drain) experience to qualify to give some advice.  (I am cc'ing
the List for the benefit of any recent new owners - who should also become
totally aware of the entire technical contents of www.urs4.com ).

Dave (hope I didn't sound to "preachy") F.

mungerts at uneedspeed.net wrote:

> Thanks for the info,
> I didn't get new mounts... should I have?
>
> --Scott
> Quoting Dave Forgie <forgied at direct.ca>:
>
> > Scott:  You don't HAVE to buy camber plates to get the suspension back
> > to the upper end of the stock set-up range.  You can get  your mechanic
> > to slot the new strut mounts (you bought new ones didn't you??) to get
> > enough range OR you can use Igor Kessel's procedure the "spin" the
> > mounts 180 deg and redrill them as detailed at:
> >
> > http://www.urs4.com/technical/suspension.html
> >
> > Unless of course you want to spend $$ on camber plates.
> >
> > Dave F.
> >
> >
>
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