[s-cars] S6 steering issue turned into Timing Belt R&R

[Wayne Dohnal]

>Also, since I haven't seen the Audi Crank Bolt Tool I don't
>understand why (on installation) the torque with a torque wrench would be
>338 ft.lbs. and with the Audi Crank Bolt Tool it's 258 ft.lbs.  80 ft.lbs.
>difference seems like quite a bit.  Is there a quick easy explanation for
>this?  Is it obvious if I see the tool?

The Audi tool provides about a one foot lever that the torque wrench
attaches to, throwing off the calibration of the torque wrench.  When you
apply 285 ft lb at the end of the lever, you're actually applying about 338
ft lb at the crank bolt.  I had the same question when I did the job, did
the math, and figured out the that torque wrench needed to be 3 feet long
for the numbers to be correct.  And the torque wrench was in fact 3 feet
long.  Maybe that's a standard length for 3/4 inch torque wrenches.  And if
they're a meter long on the other side of the world that would be close
enough.
)?

> What type of adhesive is used for the crank seal OEM and is it
>available for me to purchase or is there something better to use?

Some people have posted that their crank seal was glued in at the factory (I
don't think mine was), but I haven't heard of anyone using adhesive when
replacing the seal.  If you've never done this before my only input is that
it's not nearly as bad a job as most people fear it is.  I think it's silly
not to replace it when it's so accessible.

The real head-scratchier is the goop that the Bentley tells you to use on
the crank bolt.  It's very expensive at the dealer and from my reading it
sounds like nobody on the list uses it.

Wayne Dohnal
1994 S4