[s-cars] E-Brake Cable Replacement?

[Linus Toy]

deja vu...

I just did this last weekend on my '91 200q.  I suspect you'll find your S4
to be very similar.  No step-by-step instructions, but here's a few thoughts:
*  As Gary Martin mentioned, source your cables from an online vendor--I
got mine from Scott Mockry, though I'm not sure what the US-based
operations can do for you in Canada.
*  I did not remove exhaust or driveshaft--that would greatly improve
access and probably save you some frustration--unless you wear size XS gloves.
*  Since your cables are still intact, loosen the cables (at the equalizer)
from the threaded rod.  Not sure if you can disconnect the cables without
completely removing the equalizer from the threaded rod (I could because
one of my cables broke), but that's your goal.  You need a deep 10mm socket
on the end of a long (10") extension.  Although the nut is protected by a
shield above the driveshaft, if there's a lot of salt use in your area, you
may need to hit it w/ some Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.
*  The clips holding the front end of the cable are a *&^% to remove and
replace if you leave the driveshaft in place.  ask me how i know (I don't
wear XS gloves)
*  Further aft, clamps hold the cables to the body--on the 200q, a
single-post cable clamp on the right, and a two-post twisted wire on the
left.  The one on the left was hidden under aluminum heat shielding.  All
use 10mm nuts.  Note how the cable is hidden behind heat shielding on the
left side.  You probably have to move the shielding around on this side.
*  Cables remove to the rear--conduits thru the rear diff's front
cross-member and also a tube for the right side of the diff.  For the left
side, the cable goes thru the shield protecting the diff lock actuator.
*  Rubber gaiters protect the cable housings where the cables enter.  But
they have to be off to pass thru the housings.  They can be hard to slip
over the housing bosses once installed (minimal room)  Silicone spray
lubricant helps here

This is a difficult job only because you are either working on your back
with dirt falling into your eyes (wear goggles), nose, and mouth, with very
little room between you and the car, or you are standing up with car on a
lift, working with tools over your head.  But all in all, not technically
difficult.

Good luck
--Linus

At 06:44 PM 1/15/2003 , Brent Henry wrote:

>My emergency brake has been sticking on for a few days (I have stopped
>using it now).  After examining both rear calipers and freeing up the
>e-brake cam (as per s-cars.org procedure) -- I have determined that the
>problem is actually with the cable itself.  I have ordered one from the
>dealer and it should be in by the weekend.  Does anyone have a written
>procedure for replacing the e-brake cable or even some words of wisdom on
>this job?
>
>Thanks,
>Brent
>'92 Black S4

*--------------------------------------------------------------------*
*  Linus Toy                      Insanity is doing the same thing   *
*  Mercer Island, WA              you've always done and expecting   *
*  linust at mindspring.com          different results                  *
*                                      - Roger Milliken              *
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