[s-cars] Removing Springs/Strut **Without** removing Strut/wheel bearing Housing

[Rich Assarabowski]

Thanks Gary, how about this?  Jack up the car slightly on both sides to
make sure it's supported by jack stands, remove sway bar and replace the
(6) bushings.  Reinstall the sway bar, put the end back into the control
arm, tighten down on the bushings, then jack everything up and proceed
to work on side at a time to do the rest of the components?  As far
getting the sway bar back into place, would it be easier if the control
arm were disconnected at the body when trying to fit the sway bar into
the control arm?  Once it was fitted, then push the control arm (with
the sway bar in it) back into it's position in the body?

-- Rich


>IIRC I had both sides raised. That way it should be easier to pop out
the ball joint, but yeah, you are talking
>about replacing the control arms, so you would have to pull the sway
bar out of the control arm bushings. That is
>a PITA as Mark has posted. I have two experiences.
>	On the S4, I replaced the sway bar bushings only(6). I left the
weight of the car on the wheels and the sway >bar about fell out of the
control arms and after bushings replaced, slipped right back in.
CAUTION: careful not to >let the car fall on you, cause without the
swaybar in place, there is nothing to keep the wheels from moving for
>or aft (for you sailors).
>	On my 200, I replaced all the control arm bushings and sub frame
bushings, so I had a hell of a time getting >that sway bar back in. I
did so much crawling around on the garage floor, pushing, pulling,
scratching my head,
>and cursing, that I can't even remember how I ended up getting it back
together. I have read that by using a
>come-along to compress the ends of the sway bar together a bit works
well, similar to Mark's tourniquet procedure.

>>That's a pretty good description.  Did you have both sides of the car
raised or just the side that you were
>>replacing?  Can you elaborate on how you get the sway bar in and out
of the control arm??