[s-cars] Crank seal

Robert Pastore rpastore at animalfeeds.com
Fri Jul 4 08:22:15 EDT 2003


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Re: oil pump removal:

Bjorn, you are correct.  I am in the middle of some engine work on my 10v
urq, and already had the oil pan removed, so the easy solution to the oil
seal was to remove the whole cover.  I forgot that with a normal t-belt job
it would require oil pan removal & reinstall -- although if the seal removal
will take 2.5 hours, is still a viable option.

rgds,
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Bjørn Ødegård [mailto:beernuts at online.no]
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 6:48 AM
To: Wayne Dohnal; S-car list; urs4 at magnaspeed.net; Robert Pastore
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Crank seal


I had the same problem, and but I followed the SJM trick, and just
drilled a 1.5mm hole real close to the rim, and used a 'big enough'
screw in about eight places to get the sucker out..
If it doesn't bulge when the screw starts slipping, just try another
position. It looked really ugly at times..
I used about 2.5 hours on this POS since the local VAG wouldn't
rent/lend me the tool.. (company policy..) If I ever will try this
again, I guess I'll just buy the f-ing tool!

As for the removal of the oil pump cover, I tried to see how that worked
in the Bentley and FA, but to me, it seemed as if the oil pickup was
connected to it, and that the oil pan had to be removed to get acces to
that part. Is it really just a 'loose' cover?? I didn't dare to remove
it, but then the removal/insertion of a new seal would be a real POC!!

I hope the seal stays in there, are there any stories about wandering
seals? (not the marine, furry kind, thank you..;o))

Back to the Locktite: My shop only had the 243 variety, is it as strong
as the 242? Any difference?? I used quite a bit of the stuff, but I
later found out that it should also cover the seat of the bolt,
according to SJM. (I didn't read that since I had the Bentley for
guidance right then..) bummer..

I haven't run the car since I did the job some 1 1/2 week ago, (waiting
for some gaskets for the RS2-parts) and I hope I have got enough torque
on the bolt!! (Had to use about 1.2m extensions, my own weight, (78kgs)
and a little mathematics to get the right angle for the final pull.)

The woodruff key was completely torn away on the old pulley, and Joern
was kind enough to lend me one along with the crank tool. The timing was
off by about a tooth, because of the loose pulley, (Well, It was
definately not loose, cause then the engine would have gone to the dogs
long ago..) so it'll be interesting to see if it might change anything..

Bjorn :o)


----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Dohnal" <dohnal at hevanet.com>
To: "S-car list" <s-car-list at audifans.com>; <urs4 at magnaspeed.net>
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2003 5:05 AM
Subject: [s-cars] Crank seal


> I got mine out with a "tool" made from a nail.  I ground one end of
the head
> flat against the shank (so the shank could butt up to the edge of the
> crank), then hooked the remaining part of the head behind the seal.
It took
> a bend in the shank to make it work.  Then I grabbed the shank with a
pliers
> and used it as a lever against the front of the crank to pull the seal
out.
> A major downside is nicking the crank while doing the levering.  It
doesn't
> seem to be all that hard.
>
> Wayne Dohnal
> 1994 S4
>
> >Any idea how to get the crank seal out?  I've tried the trick on SJM
about
> =
> >drilling a hole and using a sheet metal screw.  No luck.  The screw
tears
> r=
> >ight out.  If anyone has any idea how this is done (apparently
without the
> =
> >tool since the kit I rented didn't include one)?  Even if you don't
know
> th=
> >e right way, any way is better than no way.  At this point, if anyone
has
> t=
> >he tool I'll give you a billion dollars for it!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> S-CAR-List mailing list
> S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
>
>



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