[s-cars] Power Steering pump failure...

Tue Jun 17 01:10:40 EDT 2003

[ Converted text/html to text/plain ]

After all the leaking mineral fluid, I believe my pump has died.  It now
makes the sound like it is running low on fluid when ever I turn the wheel.
It is obviously dead, IMO.  On top fof that, upon starting the car the last few
of times, my brakes do not work until about 5-7 mins after the cars has been
running.  I am assuming they are connected.  Is this true?  If my pump is
dead, then it will take some time before my brakes will get enough fluid to
work.  They do eventually begin to work again, but never as strong (it seems,
could be mental) as they were 6 months ago when the Big Reds were installed.

Anyone have a write-up on replacing the power steering pump and the where
abouts I can get one at a good price?  Any help is much more than appreciated!
CT Howes
>From: Robert Myers
>To: "Clayton Howes"
>Subject: Re: [s-cars] What is wrong with my engine?
>Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2003 21:53:16 -0400
>
>
>OOOOps - you omitted the 40 of 15W40. Makes a difference. I was
>reading a single viscosity oil, a very old fashioned type from my
>youth of oh so long ago. Your 15W40 is probably just about what you
>should be using in your car.
>
>Have you checked the function of your car's "bomb" (I'm assuming
>your car has a turbocharger and therefore also has a bomb or brake
>pressure accumulator)? The process is attached bown below.
>
>If you are losing hydraulic fluid you really need to find and repair
>the leakage. There are many places this can happen. One likely
>candidate (aside from a leaking hose) is a leaking steering rack.
>
>As far as the oil warning light, it depends on the exact light you
>are seeing. Is it the oil can icon in the radio station display
>area? Or is it something different? There are two oil pressure
>senders. One is for use at higher rpms and warns of excessive oil
>pressure at that time. the other is for idle conditions and will
>signal if there is pressure significantly lower than it should be.
>The two pressures are something on the order of >5 bar and < 2 bar.
>(1 bar =~ 15 psig). If either of these pressure senders goes bad
>the lights will alert you. They will also alert you should you lose
>oil pressure for some reason. the problem is that when the alert
>comes you don't know for sure which is the cause for the alert - a
>low oil pressure (Very Bad) or a faulty sender (a PITA but not
>serious).
>
>Check your oil level frequently until you know for sure what is
>happening with it. Don't overfill and don't let it get below 1
>quart down. Consider replacing both pressure senders just on GP.
>
>At 07:33 PM 6/15/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>
>>The oil was 15W40, when I usually ran 10w30 during the winter.
>>Would that still make a huge difference?
>>
>>In terms of the power steering fluid, I have been using the mineral
>>fluid. That part I know (we also have a Benz that uses the same
>>stuff). Then today, it was making low fluid nosies when the level
>>of fluid was alright. My brakes were also more stiff than usual.
>>Would they be related? I am assuming I need a new pump now, any
>>write-ups you know of for this procedure or where abouts for a new
>>pump besides the stealer?
>>
>>Thank you for your help, it is much more than appreciated....
>>
>>
>>
>>CT "The Clutch" Howes
>> >From: Robert Myers
>> >To: "Clayton Howes"
>> >Subject: Re: [s-cars] What is wrong with my engine?
>> >Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2003 05:22:23 -0400
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >15W is way too low viscosity for summer use. I run 15W50 in
>>summer.
>> > Too low a viscosity make s it much easier for the oil to leak
>>out
>> >through what normally are very small leaks. You also say your
>>"had
>> >it changed". Are you sure the guy filled it properly at that
>>time.
>> >He could have shorted you a quart just to increase his profit
>>margin
>> >a bit.
>> >
>> >Power steering fluid? Do you mean hydraulic oil? If you have been
>> >using PS fluid to refill you war using the wrong stuff - stuff
>>which
>> >is incompatible with the seals in the system. Immediately flush
>>the
>> >system and replace the fluid with the proper Pentosin 11s from
>> >rod at thepartsconnection or (for twice as much money) G0002000 from
>> >your stealer and pray the seals recover.
>> >
>> >At 10:20 PM 6/13/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>> >
>> >>[ Converted text/html to text/plain ]
>> >>
>> >>I have three concerns that have to do with my engine lately and
>>I
>> >>am just now
>> >>sure what to go from here. I hope some of you guys out there
>>will
>> >>be able to
>> >>shed a bit on light on any of these....
>> >>
>> >>1. Less than 2K miles ago I had the oil changed. I always do M1
>> >>but for the
>> >>summer I decided to run 15w this time (any complaints there?).
>> >>Well, I
>> >>realized today that the engine was tinging (what sounded like
>>all
>> >>5), so I
>> >>checked the oil and sure enough it was dangerously low. It took
>> >>two quarts,
>> >>and the oil in there seems a bit black. Not too sure, it was
>> >>getting dark,
>> >>but I have never had that happen. My "Oil" warning has come on
>> >>before, but
>> >>only on cold days and then it goes away. This is even if I know
>>I
>> >>have plenty
>> >>of oil. But in the case, it never showed at all. I was low
>>enough
>> >>I think it
>> >>would have warned me but it did not. Can anyone explain why,
>>after
>> >>I change
>> >>the weight of my oil, I loose almost all of it in 2k miles? I
>>have
>> >>not
>> >>noticed any burnt oil in my exhaust nor any on the ground after
>> >>being park.
>> >>
>> >>2. After this same drive (getting some oil back in to get it up
>>to
>> >>safe
>> >>operating level) I noticed my turbo was amazing hot after
>>shutting
>> >>the car
>> >>off. I have never noticed it running so hot, especially
>> >>considering I did not
>> >>go over 3psi since the last time it was off. My last drive I did
>> >>not break
>> >>say 7psi. So for not using my turbo at all, I do not see why it
>> >>was so hot
>> >>tonight after all the oil issues.
>> >>
>> >>3. I used to loose most of my power steering fluid in about a 2
>> >>month period.
>> >>Then starting two weeks ago, I lost most of it in a weeks time,
>>and
>> >>then it
>> >>has happened in about 4 days time now. I am not so sure what is
>> >>going on and
>> >>why all of a sudden I am losing all my mineral fluid. Any
>> >>suggestions out
>> >>there in terms of items to replace, check, tighten and the like.
>> >>
>> >>As you can tell, I do not have a Bently yet. So could someone
>>also
>> >>tell me
>> >>where a good place to pick one up so some of these things I can
>> >>check before
>> >>coming to the list.
>> >>
>> >>I do appreciate all of your help out there. I am hoping I can
>>take
>> >>care of
>> >>some of these little quirks so I do not have to get rid of
>>her....
>> >>CT "The Clutch" Howes
>> >>
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>> >>
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>> >Bob
>> >*****
>> > Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372
>> > Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP
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>
>Bob
>*****
> Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372
> Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP
> '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244
> http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm
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>
>-----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>The "Bomb", aka the hydraulic pressure accumulator, is used in turbo Audis to
maintain brake assist pressure during periods during which the "normal" vacuum
assist is unavailable (under turbo boost).
>
> Bomb (or Pressure Accumulator) Test
>
>Run engine for a minute or two to allow the bomb to charge fully (red "BRAKE"
light goes out). (If, after two or three minutes the light doesn't go off,
give up waiting on it and go ahead with the rest of the procedure.)
>
>Turn off engine.
>
>Repeatedly press and release the brake pedal while counting presses until the
pedal feels "hard".
>
> Evaluation
>
>Count Action Suggested
> >=30 None. Bomb is OK.
><30 & >=20 Repeat test at about monthly intervals.
> No serious problems - *yet*.
><20 & > 10 It's going. Plan on replacing it before too long.
><10 It's basically gone. Replace bomb at earliest convenience.
><2 In the immortal words of Bones, "He's dead, Jim."
> Do it NOW!
>
>Caution!! Danger, Will Robinson! There is a reason why this is called the
"bomb". High pressures (~4k psi) if released suddenly can perform extremely
impressive feats. Release the pressure (multiple presses on pedal with engine
off) before unscrewing anything. If you fail to heed this warning, be sure to
count your fingers before and after opening something. You are checking for a
change in the finger count before and after.
>
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