[s-cars] Bypass valve questions

[Joseph Pizzimenti]

I use TurboXS Type H25.  It works, but is a little bit
of a bitch to get in there right.  The Forge or Bailey
valves should do the job fine.

Joe
--- Djdawson2 at aol.com wrote:
> --
> [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
> All,
> I recently finished with engine upgrades (RS2
> stuff).  Following the
> upgrades, I soon noticed the telltale mid-rpm
> moaning of a failed bypass valve.
> Looking around, I noticed Hoppen carried a version
> of the Bosch part... suffix of
> 110 (as opposed to 114 or 108).  There was a long
> story about 400 and 500hp MTM
> engines, and this bypass valve being a good
> solution.  I ordered away.  After
> installing the part, I could immediately notice the
> difference.  Huge lag
> between shifts, and what seemed to be a missing top
> end hit.  There isn't much to
> replacing a bypass valve... but I double checked.
> All was OK (no, I didn't
> install it backwards).
>
> I removed the part.  I hooked up the small manifold
> port via a hose to some
> low pressure regulated air (10psi).  It was leaking
> away.  The diaphragm must
> be shot.  My original doesn't do this.  So then I
> hooked up air to the valve on
> the boost inlet port.  The original (108) starts to
> seep air at 19-20psi.
> The new (110) valve begins to seep air at 24-25psi.
>
> Well, I'm not going to bother with another Bosch
> unit.  It would be one thing
> if you got some reasonable service life from it, but
> what the heck?  Anyone
> have a suggestion about a good aftermarket
> alternative for our type of
> application (about24psi boost, in this instance)?
> I'm not looking for anodized
> purple, or neon illuminated... just a bypass valve
> that is effective.
> TIA,
> Dave in CO
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