[s-cars] Pad Sensor Purgatory

[Joseph Pizzimenti]

By splicing before the connector, you take it out of
the equation.  Peace of mind and no light for me,
YMMV.  And splicing wires is EASY.  I am a sloppy,
messy Eyetalian and if I can manage to cut a wire,
strip the insulation, twist the wires together and
wrap it in electrical tape, so can you, chief.  ;-)

Joe
--- Cody Payne <Cody.Payne at bconnected.com> wrote:
> Joe,
> 	I spliced mine below the plastic OEM connector vs.
> "above" it and still getting the darn light.  I
> would assume it wouldn't matter if it was above or
> below the connector unless the connector itself was
> bad or if I cant splice 2 wires together ;-)
>
> cp
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Robert F. Eagleye
> [mailto:rfeagleye at thornhillcpa.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 2:54 PM
> To: Joseph Pizzimenti; S-Cars List Post
> Subject: RE: [s-cars] Pad Sensor Purgatory
>
>
> Joe,
>
> Can this be done with light beer? Also, can I have
> one before removing the
> wheel lug bolts? :)
>
> Serious question, so I can cut it way up by the top
> of the fender no
> problem? I think the issue is actually in the wire
> from under the hood to
> the sensor plug, and I wanted to cut it off at the
> top, but I bet those damn
> wires are expensive and if I goofed, it would cost
> me.
>
> Rob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joseph Pizzimenti [mailto:pizzoman at yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 4:45 PM
> To: rfeagleye at thornhillcpa.com; S-Cars List Post
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Pad Sensor Purgatory
>
>
> Bob,
> Here's my extensive writeup on fixing them there
> sensors and getting rid of that light.
>
> (01) Buy beer
> (02) Remove front wheel lug bolts
> (03) Drink beer
> (03) Quit trying so hard and jack up car first
> (04) Remove wheels
> (05) Have another one, it's okay
> (06) See that wire that runs from the sensor up into
> the fender?  Cut it.
> (07) Take beer break, you're almost breaking a sweat
> here.
> (08) Strip ends of wire and twist together.
> (09) Use copious amounts of electrical tape,
> preferably matching color of front UberCalipers, to
> cover up your hackjob
> (10) Put anti-seize on wheel hub (hehehe, I can hear
> it now, Torsenboy) and torque wheel lugs to 90
> ft-lb.
> DO NOT USE A/S ON LUG THREADS.  Bad sh!t happens,
> trust me.
> (11) Lather, rinse and repeat on other side of car.
> (12) Start car and enjoy lack of annoyingass orange
> idiot light
>
> These ain't problems, Eagle, they're just the
> necessary proverbial sand in the a$s nuisances of
> owning one of them nuce furrin' cars.
>
> Joe
>
> --- "Robert F. Eagleye" <rfeagleye at thornhillcpa.com>
> wrote:
> > After installing an ECS Stage 2 brake kit on my
> car,
> > I have been trying for
> > a few weeks to figure out why the Pad Sensor light
> > is always on.
> >
> > At first I had the lines cut and wired together
> > (after the plug). It worked
> > for a while, but at some point my car decided it
> > didn't like that, and the
> > light came on. I tried to tie them together again
> to
> > fix the problem, but it
> > didn't work. I then spliced in the sensors for the
> > pads, which I had on hand
> > but didn't use them originally because we ran out
> of
> > time when installing
> > the brakes. This also didn't help, the light is
> > still on.
> >
> > So, is there a fuse, relay, or a good pair of wire
> > cutters I should know
> > about that can turn the sensor off for good? I
> > wanted to make it work like
> > it should, but now I just want the light off!
> >
> > Robert F. Eagleye
> > 1992 S4 - a new problem every week
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > S-CAR-List mailing list
> > S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> >
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
>
>
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