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Took me a year, after stumbling onto this list of the LAF (lunatic Audi
fringe,) to turn my mellow S6 Avant into a screaming maniac...thank you
very much:)
Did the Bilstein/Eibachs last summer and the xcam and Stromung last
fall.  The software and injectors were done last week and manifold,
turbo and maf last weekend.  Phew! :-)))  Brakes sometime this summer or
sooner if I can wear them out.
I followed Jim's manifold install instructions and they were a great
guide.  Thanks!!!
Prior to install I had gathered together the following incidentals:
Liquid Wrench spray (wife: "Geeez what's that smell?,) Playtex "living"
gloves (work great until consumed by coolant,) kitty litter (cause I
knew I was going to have spills,) Dremel with a package of the
black/fiberglass cut off wheels, Rhino Ramps, set of 8 craftsman combo
wrenches, various fine sockets and extensions imported from China:O, 3
expertly custom crafted special wrenches barrowed from Mr Pastore, thank
you Bob, 1/2 inch Sears distributor wrench cut down to 4 inches and
gound and filed into sort of an open end box wrench combo for the
install of lower bolt #5 I believe (that took 2 hours.  I hate that
bolt) ass't screw drivers (long and short,) 5mm allen key, 19mm open end
wrench, xtra 17mm combo wrench, a vice and a hammer.
Tools I should have had were prolly a MAPP torch cause, as we all know,
propane won't bend wrenches and some Permatex gasket seal which would
have been nice to have on hand when the top turbo oil seal did an "Exxon
Valdez" during first stat up upon completion. (think kitty litter)
Prior to starting, I changed my oil filter and dumped in my cars first
taste of Mobil 1 10w 30 (I wonder if thats best?....just kidding:)  I
also installed a Samco Xover hose with big boy clamps.  I should have
drained the coolant but didnt but thats another story.
Here's a list of nuts, bolts, screws, washers, gaskets you may or may
not want to get.  I only got a few manifold bolts (but never used them)
and all the crush washers and gaskets for oil and water connections.
About $12 well spent at VWparts.com.
I will admit that for all this work, some nice new shiney nuts would
look nice and they don't cost too much.  Old EM gasket works fine. YMMV
*note list compilation courtesy of Frank Amoroso and Bob Rossato-
thanks men
RS2 EM goodies:
1 - 034 129 589 A --- Gasket --- (Manifold>Head)
1 - 035 129 589 D --- Gasket --- (Manifold>Turbo)
1 - 447 253 115 --- Gasket --- (Manifold>Downpipe)
2 - 857 253 115 --- Gasket --- (Downpipe>Wastegate)
2 - N012 226 5 --- Washer --- (Turbo>Oil Inlet Line)
1 - 035 145 773 D --- Gasket --- (Turbo>Oil Inlet Line)
2 - N012 226 5 --- Washer --- (Turbo>Oil Return Line)
1 - 035 145 757 D --- Gasket --- (Turbo>Oil Return Line)
2 - N013 812 8 --- Seal --- (Turbo>Water Feed Line)
2 - N013 814 9 --- Seal --- (Turbo>Water Return Line)
2 - N013 814 9 --- Seal --- (Wastegate>Pressure Line)
16 - N902 002 01 --- Nut --- (Manifold>Head)
16 - N900 955 01 --- Washer --- (Manifold>Head)
6 - N 906 486 01 --- Stud, M8x27 (EM>Head)
4 - 046 145 749 --- Nut, M10 (EM>Turbo)
4 - N 902 002 01 --- Nut, AM8 (EM>Wastegate *)
* also used at other end of wastegate for a total of 7, see below
3 - N 010 244 21 --- Bolt, M8x30 (Flex Exh Pipe>Downpipe)
3 - N 900 850 01 --- Nut, M8 (Flex Exh Pipe>Downpipe)
3 - N 902 002 01 --- Nut, AM8 (Wastegate>Flex Exh Pipe)
3 - N 903 690 01 --- Nut, M10 (Turbo>Downpipe)
1 - N 900 730 01 --- Nut, M10 (Turbo>Downpipe)
1 - N 011 560 8 --- Washer, 10,5x18x1,6 (Turbo>Downpipe)
2 - N 023 002 8 --- Nut, AM6 (Turbo>Oil Inlet Line)
2 - N 101 154 01 --- Bolt, M6x18Z1 (Turbo>Oil Return Line)

During removal, all went well till I hit the 5mm allen oil line screw on
the underside of the turbo.  My allen wrench curved portion, going into
the screw, was too long I think and it took some time to properly center
it in the screw to get it out.  But considering I had to hang by my feet
from the ceiling for this manuever, the difficulty was to be expected.
Wastegate and "accordion" pipe were removed in one piece.
Downpipe has to be disconnected at tailpipe too.  I thought maybe I
wouldn't have to, but its only 2 slighty rusty bolts and about 15minutes
work.  These should be replaced IME (though I didnt.)
Manifold removal was time consuming but not too difficult.  What a great
feeling when those bolts break loose cause you know you can almost hand
unscrew from there.  And Voila! Everything is out!
After carefully shielding engine parts for sparks, I used the Dremel cut
off wheel to cut off Jims noted head bolts for the new manifold to fit.
The Dremel worked great and the same wheel could file down the bolt
heads after cut off.  Easy...measure twice cut once applies.
Since a couple of studs for the RS2 manifold may not have enough room
for the very tall washers, I put one in the vice and Dremel cut it into
2 pieces.  My thinking was half a washer, better than none.  That Dremel
is cool:)
When installing new manifold make sure metal side is to engine.
THIS is a good time to examine the oil line flanges and make sure all of
the old gasket is cleaned off.  This will avoid an Exxon Valdez
incident.
Also a good time to paint /clean up your wastegate.
The manifold washers and nuts have to all be added loosely on the studs
and gradually tightened together.  There's one bolt on the bottom (about
the 5th from front I think) that took twice the time to tighten as the
others combined.  This was partially cause I had to make the tool out of
the distributor wrench then push to tighten while once again hanging
from the ceiling.  The wrench cannot make a full turn cause it hits part
of the engine.
Now I was confronted with a new turbo with no studs for the downpipe
connection and no studs for the oil flange top and bottom.  So, after
consulting the list and searching the net for how to remove the old
ones.  The answer of course was to screw on 2 nuts, tighten them against
each other and then unscrew using the bottom nut.  Genius!
Make sure not to loose the washers on both sides of  the flexible hose
connection to the wastegate.  I put new washers in.
Check and double check all  the hose connections are tightened down.
Make sure all nuts and bolts are tight.  Add back your coolant and fire
that baby up.
14 hrs or so for this mechanic wannabe.
The car is now fast.  I mean really fast!!  Very happy to have those
Bilstein/Eibachs.  There's now some powerzone (I'm still trying to
determine exactly where) where the car feels like it lifts and takes
off, under hard acceleration, seemingly sideways like a scared cat :)
Hold on baby!
Cheers'
Bill m   -with RS2 merit badge and sore fingers.
95 1/2 Avant Screamer
75 Carrera

MORE info follows:
Taka,
Glad to give a little payback for sure.. Make note too of Pastore's
subsequent post reference disconnecting the lower oil line at the engine
block instead of the turbo.  This option came to me only after I had
already
removed the turbo and a very cursory look left me unsure as to whether
it
would have been easier to remove working from under the engine and how
much
oil would leak out then.  Worth exploring though if starting the job
over.
Also; I forgot to mention that the lower coolant line should be bent a
little bit at the bend so that it's about 1/4" longer to mate up
perfectly
with the new turbo.(YMMV)  This will a bit easier to do -before-
installing
the turbo.
Note too that in some places of my post where I said "bolt", I really
meant
"stud."
BTW, since my old turbo was kinda rusty looking in spots, I painted the
new
turbo with "Por 20" while it was out. Very nice!
Maybe this weekend I'll post some pics, but I wonder where since the
yahoo
files were gone last time I looked.
Good luck!  It's a fun project, looking back.  Kinda like giving birth I
suppose.  And the results are spectacular!  Bob would be happy to hear
that
I hit the rev limiter this AM for the first time :)  Good to know it
works.
Cheers'
Bill m