[s-cars] FW: RS2 Exhaust Manifold Install Helpful Hints

[Cody Payne]

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Gents...a few valuable tips from Sir Todd Kramer that I thought I would add=
 to the S-Cars DB of knowledge....

Thx Todd

cp



Cody,

Not that I have the definative answer to the install, but I have done 4...s=
end me your mailing address, and if any help, I will mail you my 12mm modif=
ied wrenches that will speed the installation of the manifold .. they are s=
imiliar to previous posts on what to do to the wrenches, but I have found t=
hese 12mm wrenches really speed the process of the install.

Go to http://www.urs4.com/technical/engine/UrS4_exhaust.html  for the mod t=
o the 15mm wrench ... I used a standard 15mm with the exhaust removed ... n=
o big issue.

Helpful Hints:

1=2E Penetrating oil on all nuts to be removed.  Problem areas:  Accordian =
Pipe, Exhaust to turbo, turbo to manifold bolts.  I have sheared numerous t=
urbo studs off; this will incorporate a four day turn around with your loca=
l machine shop to tap them out.  Do it the night before as you ponder your =
task...

2=2E  Consumables:
    a. ALL gaskets need to be replaced; they are not cheap.  I used ECS tun=
ing because they could get them to me quick and were competive with most sh=
ops (Accordian pipe gaskets, exhaust to turbo, turbo to manifold, manifold =
to head, oil lines (top, bottom, and block ... I bought material from Check=
ers and cut my own))
    b. Nuts and bolts:  the only hardware you can re-use (Bentley's Rule) a=
re the header and turbo studs and the exhaust manifold washers.  The manifo=
ld bolts are a $2.50 (each) dealer only item (these are a non-negotiable re=
placement item ... they are also used to attach the accordian pipe.  The on=
ly I reused my best manifold bolts with the accordian pipe, but used new fo=
r the remainder.  The turbo to manifold bolts are $11.00 (ea) dealer only i=
tem .. I re-used mine and have no leaks (14 months)
    c.  PENTOSIN antifreeze ... you will lose almost all of your coolant ..=
 just drain it all ... and beware the lower coolant hose on the bottom of t=
he turbo .. the head hold about a liter of coolant that will end up on the =
floor of your garage...position your basin accordingly.

3=2E  Removing the turbo:  Disconnect the lower oil line at the block.  Thi=
s makes the re-installation a breeze.  Trying to attach the lower oil retur=
n line from underneath the car is a royal bitch.  I also pulled the wastega=
te before pulling the turbo ... made access to the manifold/turbo bolts muc=
h easier.  Be careful, I have sheared a WG stud or two in my times.  (See P=
enetrating oil comment)

4=2E  Cut the studs like on the link ... before you do this, thread your ol=
d manifold stud bolts on, with flat face out, this is a great way to make s=
ure you chase the threads as you back them off.  I cut #4,5,6 on the top an=
d bottom ... my last intall was an IA RS2 manifold, so it had some castings=
 that needed to be ground to ease installation.

5=2E  If you have my 12mm wrenches (send address), they make the lower nuts=
 less of a PITA to install, and the box end will allow you to tighten them =
as best as can be done.  Yeah, they are short and will required a million r=
epetions ... but they are much quicker than a standard wrench or socket.  I=
 would also suggest in investing in a 12mm gear wrench from Sears.  The tri=
ck to tightening all the bolts is to put the manifold on the studs, finger =
tighten the corner studs to hold it in place, then install the rest of the =
bolts.  Tighten all bolts to a 1/3 of the total length of the stud ... thre=
e iterations.  With the manifold against the head, some of the heads of the=
 bolts will bind such that you cannot get a wrench on them ... it will be p=
ainfully obvious if you tighten one too much...

6=2E  Once the manifold is on, get the bolts as tight as a six point box en=
d will let you ... the bolts are a copper alloy and will round very easily =
.=2E. so don't get greedy.  Some bolts are easier to get to from underneath=
 the car.

7=2E  Re-install the turbo, remember to fill the top oil hole with oil befo=
re you connect the oil line.  I used a syringe and spun the compressor whee=
l to fill the housing with oil...keeps from dryspinning the turbine shaft. =
 I used teflon paste on the water lines ... cheap insurance agains future l=
eaks.  I also used permatex non-hardening gasket compound to help seal the =
oil lines

8=2E  Re-install the Wastegate

9=2E  Install the downpipe loosely so you can, simultaneously, re-attached =
the accordian pipe.  This can be difficult...  When tightening the exhaust =
to the turbo, cross-tighten the nuts so you ensure a good seal .. top right=
, bottom left, top left, bottom right x 2 ... sequentially tighten/torque t=
he bolts (70% torque, 100% torque) ... this helps not deform the gasket as =
you create the seal.

10.  Once everything is back together, re-fill the coolant, fire her up and=
 check for:
    a. Oil Line leaks, top and bottom (gasket compound)
    b. Coolant leaks, top and bottom (teflon paste)
    c.  Listen for exhaust leaks (clicks or puffing sounds); I used a 2-foo=
t piece of hose to listen to the top and bottom of each cylinder and at the=
 turbo connections and exhaust connections.. kinda like a stethascope (sp?)=
, make the puffing very obvious ... if you hear something, tighten that spo=
t and re-check.

11.  After a tank of gas, re-do step 10 to make sure everything survived th=
e heat-cycles of day to day driving.


Have fun.

Todd Kramer
'95 S6