[s-cars] welcome to my nitemare

[Bruce Mendel]

This happened to me at 140MPH at 6800RPM at Virginia International
Raceway.....twice! Actually, the second time was at Watkins Glen.

Both times I was able to drive home in limp mode, and there was zero
internal damage.

Lucky!

B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Heneghan" <paul.heneghan at bbc.co.uk>
To: <s-car-list at audifans.com>
Cc: <beernuts at online.no>; <strangconst at rogers.com>; <QSHIPQ at aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2003 1:19 PM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] welcome to my nitemare


> I'm not sure I follow the "locking tool will sheer the cast keyway" bit.
> The locking tool holds the crank pulley stationary, so if you try and
> undo the crank bolt, there should be no transfer of torque through the
> crank pulley to the crank shaft and therefore no stress to the key.
>
> However, I'm amazed at how many of you have suffered from this problem.
> I had thought I was the only one!  It happened to me years ago as a
> result of the one and only time I got a shop to do the timing belt
> change.  A few months later the car lost all power - I traced it to a
> timing problem and assumed the belt had jumped a tooth.  It happened
> again a few days later and then I realised that the crank pulley had to
> be turning with respect to the crank.  Luckily I got to it before the
> pistons got to the valves.  There was no eveidence of any key when I
> dismantled it.  It had been ground to dust.  I reckon the shop either
> didn't use loctite, or didn't use the correct torque, or quite possibly
> both!
>
> In my opinion (which isn't worth much as I've only ever done 4 TB
> changes), this problem is either due to poor rebuilding techniques such
> as omitting loctite or using the wrong torque on the crank bolt, or
> using some fiendish way of removing the bolt involving putting a
> ludicrous torque on the key either by the use of an impact driver or by
> jamming the flywheel while simultaneously jumping up and down at the end
> of an 6' extension bar on the crank bolt (reluctant wives are usually
> involved in this procedure).
>
> Paul
>
> p.s. Thanks for the warning about replacing the bolt - I thought it was
> a typically massively over-engineered German bolt capable of infinite
> reuse.  I'm surprised that it's not mentioned in most reviews of the TB
> change.
>
> p.p.s Just out of interest, could all of you who have come across a
> crank pulley failure send me a 'me too' email - I'll report back to the
> list on the numbers involved.
>
> p.p.p.s. If there's enough of us, maybe we should set up a support group
> and hold meetings - "Hello, my name is Paul, and I'm a keyless crank
> pulley owner..."
>
> > Message: 4
> > From: QSHIPQ at aol.com
> > Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 08:40:12 EDT
> > Subject: Re: [s-cars] welcome to my nitemare
> > To: strangconst at rogers.com, beernuts at online.no,
> > s-car-list at audifans.com
> >
> > This is pretty common in S cars, actually in 5000/200's
> > before them...  The problem appears to be the locking
> > compound on those threads really makes the bolt stubborn
> > coming out.  So much so that many times the locking tool will
> > sheer the cast keyway.  A close inspection of the keyway is
> > in order when t= he timing belt service is done.  I'm not
> > sure this is a replace every time par= t if it's inspected.
> > If you want to go that route, I'd suggest changing the 4 a= llen
> > bolts and torquing them to spec as well.   The problem
> > appears to be looking
> > at the back of the pully.  From what I read below, I'd guess
> > that the last = TB already sheered or deformed that key, and
> > that the installer just lined up = the hash mark on the front
> > cover without inspection.  This usually manifests itself with
> > a spin sometime down the road, especially if the crank bolt
> > was=  reused and stretched a bit...  BTST.
> >
> > The part that I WOULD routinely replace is the crank bolt.
> > Audi specifies this, and for good reason, it definitely
> > stretches on install.  I have one = in my shop that failed,
> > luckily I felt it getting weak and when it let go, it sti= ll
> > had enough attached to the sheer to back it out.  The bolt is
> > 12USD and is available at the parts counter.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> > Scott Justusson
> > QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
> >
> >
> > Paul Heneghan,
> > Lecturer (Computers and Networks)
> > BBC Training & Development
> * * Work:   01386 4 20120
> * * Fax:  01386 4 20127
> * *  Room B11, BBC Wood Norton, Evesham, Worcs., WR11 4YB
> * * mailto:paul.heneghan at bbc.co.uk
> * * http://training.gateway.bbc.co.uk/td
> >
> >
>
> BBCi at http://www.bbc.co.uk/
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