[s-cars] fact or fiction - diff lock relay...

[Cody Payne]

Lets just say..I was driving in snow like this:
http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/9882/pic00037.jpg

Only a few snowplows and a few trucks where out on the road..and my Audi....I wanted the challenge ;-)

So if your theory/experience is true then I suspect that the actuator was partially engaged due to snow pack around it.  I was attempting to get in the driveway stuck..when I hit the rear diff lock button...a sudden "clunk" and the damage was done.

Here is another pic:
http://worldsbeer.com//urs4/PIC00012.jpg when I thought it was just a leaky seal.

Don't have a picture of all the pieces ;-)  But it did destroy the diff and now I have a V-8 Torsen Rear Diff from thanks to Bob Pastore.

Cheers

cp



-----Original Message-----
From: QSHIPQ at aol.com [mailto:QSHIPQ at aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2003 1:15 PM
To: Cody Payne; vfugman at globaldialog.com; ken_ng11 at yahoo.com;
s-car-list at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [s-cars] fact or fiction - diff lock relay...


Not sure I completely agree with the conclusion cody.  What usually causes
them to strip is a partial engagement situation, especially on the street cars,
since the use of the rear locker is minimal at best.  Prior to every winter
event, I make sure to clean and relube and ck for proper function of the rear
diff.  A mityvac with the car in the air is enough.  With this procedure, I
haven't experienced any proplems at all.  I've run into the same situation with
the center diff dog clutch as well.  In fact, prior to 84 audi put a return
spring on the center shaft that I determined was the cause of a few observed urq
center failures.

Another observation:  In lower cf conditions locking and unlocking under load
really isn't a problem.  In your case I would suspect either restricted rear
diff actuator movement from 1 of 3 conditions:  low vacuum, sticking actuator
due to inproper lube, or sticking actuator due to snow pack around the
actuator.  I've found that the fastest way around Steamboat (winning the first
rallycross there in '97 with this technique), is to leave the center engaged all the
time, and actuate/deactuate the rear diff on the fly.  At the apex lock the
center, prior to next turn entry deactivate the center (blipping the throttle
can make this a predictable event).  It's a whole bunch of work, and unless
actively seeking hardware or taking on the chasing hired guns at Steamboat, it's
a whole lot easier to just leave the rear locked.

Then again, your experience or mine, it would seem a torsen rear diff would
be a handy no brainer spider in one's foul weather q arsenal.

HTH

Scott "TB" Justusson
91 v8 rear torsen
'84 RS2URQ project rear torsen
'83 Urq lockers




In a message dated 10/17/2003 10:32:11 PM Central Daylight Time,
cpayne at bconnected.com writes:
It was broke "during" engage as you say.  The locking ring was in about 20
pieces and the part the ring engaged over was missing a few teeth.  I believe ya
on the once engaged part..but make darn sure you are not moving the slightest
during engagement.

cp