[s-cars] RS2 EM Swap Special Tools??

Fri Apr 30 10:53:21 EDT 2004

Here is the message originally posted by Jerry Scott:

Sean Douglas

-----------

Here's a write-up that I did back in 1997 for the RS2 manifold install
in a 93 S4. This might be helpful in your attempt, in addition to the
one just posted by Bill Mahoney.

The replacement of the standard manifold with the RS2 manifold is a
somewhat difficult task, but is reasonably capable by anyone who has
done mechanical auto work previously, and by someone who has a complete
set of standard metric wrenches, metric sockets, metric allen wrenches,
and a Mapp gas torch. You will also need a floor jack, a bench grinder,
and a mechanic's trouble light. If you take your time, and are not
frustrated by difficult to reach nut and bolt locations, you will find
it a rewarding challenge. Three standard wrenches, (one 15 mm.
combination, and two 12 mm. combination) will need to be modified by
grinding and bending, to accomplish the task. The wrenches were about
$3.00 each.

1) Start by jacking up the car on the driver's side, (at the lift point
under the front door), and remove the plastic bottom cover by turning
with a screw driver, 8 quarter-turn screws. You may alternately want to
run the front of the car up on ramp stands, instead of using a floor
jack.

2) Drain the radiator of coolant from the plastic valve at the bottom of
the radiator on the driver's side, into a container. This is necessary
since you will need to disconnect two water lines from the turbo.
Alternately, you may try to catch the coolant in a bucket under the car,
when you disconnect the turbo water lines, in a later step. The engine
should be cool before starting this procedure.

3) Remove the plastic air filter cover by lifting and snapping it off
from the inboard side. Remove the air filter box by flipping 4 wire
buckles, then disconnect a wiring connector by removing the wire
retainer and pulling the connector off. Loosen the airbox air intake
hose at the hose clamp, then remove the airbox and filter from the car.

4) Remove the four nuts holding the waste gate to the manifold. Then
remove the three nuts and bolts aft of the expansion bellows pipe, where
it connects to the exhaust pipe. During reassembly, the gasket at this
joint will need to be replaced, or if it is not damaged, can be reused.
Remove the air control line to the waste gate (one bolt). Put a piece of
masking tape over the end of the bolt to keep from loosing the bolt and
washer. This will now allow the waste gate assembly to be removed. Note
that there is no gasket where the waste gate detaches from the manifold.
This is a metal to metal fit.

5) Remove the four nuts where the exhaust pipe connects to the hot
sections of the turbo. The bottom of these 4 nuts is smaller (15 mm)
than the other three 17 mm nuts, and is a little difficult to remove. It
is the only one of the four with a washer. Use a 15 mm combination
wrench at the box end. Heat and bend the wrench about 1.5 in. from the
box end, with a 15 degree offset to clear the engine mount. Use an
acetylene torch or Mapp gas torch (Sears), and a vise to heat and bend
the wrench. A propane torch may not be hot enough. Buy an inexpensive
forged steel wrench from Checker Auto for this purpose, (approximately:
$3.00). You may need to use a pry bar against the wrench to get the nut
to break loose. Remove the four lines to the turbo, two at the top and
two at the bottom. You will lose some antifreeze when you loosen the
bottom lines, if you have not drained the radiator earlier. Tape the
lower oil line with masking tape to keep debris out of this line while
you are cleaning the gasket areas. There is a gasket on one line at the
top and one line at the bottom of the turbo, that will need to be
scraped clean and replaced, during reassembly. Do not use any gasket
sealer when replacing these lines. One of the bottom lines will require
removal of two bolts, with a 5 mm metric allen wrench.

6) Remove the four nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. The gasket at
this joint should be replaced when reassembling. Note orientation of
which side of the gasket is against the turbo.

7) Jack up the car under the front door at the lift point, on the
passenger side; go under the car, and disconnect the exhaust pipe on the
passenger side, just forward of the catalytic converter, by removing 3
nuts and bolts. If these are rusted, you may need to hacksaw these bolts
to remove them, then replace them at your Audi dealer. Do not lose the
steel ring gasket that will fall out. Lower the jack and jack up the
driver's side of the car, then loosen the three bolts on the exhaust
pipe on this side of the car. It is only necessary to loosen these
bolts.

8) It is now possible to pull the exhaust pipe back to clear the turbo
studs. It is helpful to hold the pipe back with a webbing strap and
buckle. Attach it to the exhaust pipe and to the steering damper rod,
then pull it tight.

9) Remove the large air input hose at the forward end of the turbo by
loosening the hose clamp, and pulling the hose forward. There is also a
small air hose at the forward end of the turbo that will need to be
removed, by loosening a hose clamp. Disconnect the crankcase breather
hose at the valve cover, by loosening a clamp and pulling it back.
Loosen the clamp for the turbo output hose, which is at the front and
lower part of the turbo. This hose will not disconnect until you lift
out the turbo assembly.

10) The turbo assembly can now be removed by first clearing the manifold
studs, pulling it out of the rubber output hose, then by lifting it out.

11) Remove the 16 stud nuts and washers from the manifold with a 12 mm
deep socket ratchet wrench. Remove the exhaust manifold and gasket.

12) The RS2 manifold requires that four studs be removed and replaced
with shorter studs. A diagram supplied with the manifold shows which
studs are to be removed. Make sure that you remove the correct studs.
The studs to be removed are: top row, # 6 counting from the front, and
bottom row, # 4, 5, and 6 counting from the front. These studs can be
removed with a Sears Craftsman 4458P stud remover. This tool grips the
stud with a camed serrated wheel, which bites into the stud threads. The
studs are not reusable after removal.

13) Now install the 4 shorter studs, with the shorter thread length
going into the cylinder head, and the longer thread outward. Use two of
the 12 mm nuts, jammed together on the stud to drive it into the head,
with a 12 mm socket. Make sure that it is fully seated against the stud
shoulder, then remove the two jammed nuts.

14) Place the RS2 manifold over the studs with a new gasket, having the
shiny part of the gasket against the engine head. Now comes the
difficult part. First put on the three bottom nuts on the short studs.
Do not reuse the copper washers on these three nuts. If you do, the
thread locking part of the nut will not have enought engagement on the
stud, and the nut may later work loose. Now put all of the other nuts on
loosely, all with the copper washers. You will need to tighten the three
bottom short studs first. These three studs will be difficult to tighten
and will require tools to be modified, due to the small clearance around
the nuts. Buy two 12 mm forged steel combination wrenches from Checker
Auto, or your local auto store, for approximately $3.00 each.

15) For studs # 4 and 5, use an open end 12 mm combination wrench that
has had the open end ground down with a bench grinder, to a .855 in.
outside width, then thickness of the open end ground down to .180 in.,
and the handle bent at approximately 10 deg. offset, 1.75 in. from the
end of the open end. The bending can be accomplished again with an
acetylene torch or a Sears Mapp gas bottle torch, and a vise. You will
need to custom grind the wrench and try it until it fits over the two
nuts.

16) For stud # 6 bottom row, (the most difficult to tighten), you will
need to grind another 12 mm combination wrench, to remove some of the
outer metal around the outside of the box end. Grind it down as far as
you can go without cutting through the box ring, (approximately .650 in.
diameter). Now grind down the thickness of the box ring to about .225
in.. Put the box end in a vise, heat and bend the handle at 90 deg.,
about 1.5 in. from the end of the box end. Keep trying the wrench on the
nut by looking through the hole in the manifold casting, and by making
grinding adjustments as necessary, until it fits over the nut.

17) First, use the modified open end wrench to tighten # 4, then # 5,
bottom row. Next tighten # 6, bottom row, by using the modified box
wrench with a large square shanked screw driver, then twisted the wrench
in the open end, like a t-handle. Tighten the top #6 nut with an open
end 12 mm wrench, and the remaining nuts with a 12 mm deep socket
ratchet wrench.

18) The remainder of the reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly.
Don't forget to add coolant before starting the engine. Audi requires a
phosphate free, aluminum safe coolant, such as Autobahn sold by Audi,
($14.00/gal.), or Prestone Extended Life 5/100, ($7.00/gal.). The new
manifold may smoke for a while after starting the engine, until the
machining oils are burned off.

Regards,

Jerry Scott

> -----Original Message-----
> From: s-car-list-bounces+quattro20v=telus.net at audifans.com 
> [mailto:s-car-list-bounces+quattro20v=telus.net at audifans.com] 
> On Behalf Of Fifield, Douglas
> Sent: Friday, April 30, 2004 6:15 AM
> To: 's-car-list at audifans.com'
> Subject: [s-cars] RS2 EM Swap Special Tools??
> 
> 
> 
> All,
> 
> I know I saw it, but I can't find it now.  Looking for a 
> detailed description of how to make the special wrench 
> modifications for tomorrow's EM swap attempt.  I have a photo 
> of modified wrenches, but someone actually posted dimensions 
> (ex: bend 90 deg. 1.3 inches from box end;  grind open end to 
> 0.13 inches thick, etc.).  Anyone have that post handy?
> 
> Douglas in MN, upgrading tomorrow
> 95.5 //S6Avant - mine
> 98 Mercury Mountaineer - her work sled
> 98 Toyota RAV4 - for sale
> 73 BMW R60/5 - lonely in the garage
> 
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